In short: 6 regional gilda variations from the north: classic Basque (Cantabrian anchovy), Cantabrian (bonito belly), Asturian (smoked scorpionfish), Galician (mussel/razor clam), Catalan (L'Escala anchovy), modern (cured beef+cheese).
Table of contents
1. Classic Basque Gilda (Donostia)
The mother of them all. Manzanilla green olive + Ibarra Basque guindilla pepper + Cantabrian anchovy, size 0 or 00. Dressed with Arbequina EVOO. Invented in Casa Vallés in the 1940s, it was named after the 1946 Rita Hayworth film Gilda — the guindilla pepper was "spicy like her."
2. Cantabrian Gilda (with bonito)
Cantabrian variation that replaces the anchovy with a strip of bonito belly in oil. Fattier and milder than the anchovy version, less intense flavor but more versatile. Manzanilla green olive, mild Cantabrian guindilla pepper, Cantabrian bonito belly.
3. Asturian Gilda (with scorpionfish or squid ink)
Asturias incorporates smoked fish or local preserves: smoked scorpionfish instead of anchovy, or mackerel in oil. Some versions use pickled onion instead of olives. Essential pairing with natural, poured cider.
4. Galician Gilda (with mussel or razor clam)
The most seafood-centric version. Pickled mussel or razor clam in oil instead of anchovy. Gordal green olive, mild Galician Padrón pepper (much milder). Paired with Rías Baixas Albariño.
5. Catalan Banderillas (L'Escala anchovy)
Catalonia has its own version, called "banderilla" (not gilda). L'Escala anchovy (Catalan, different from Cantabrian, smaller), Aragón black olive, mild guindilla pepper, optional pickled onion. Paired with brut nature cava or Catalan vermouth.
6. Modern Gilda (with cured beef and cheese)
Contemporary variation (2015+) that replaces anchovy with cured León beef + aged Manchego cheese. A more substantial pintxo, with a meat-dairy contrast. Increasingly popular in modern Basque and Catalan pintxotegis.
Assorted premium Gildas Bacalalo
Artisan gildas ready to serve, based on the classic Basque recipe with premium Cantabrian anchovies.
Frequently asked questions
What defines a "northern gilda"?
Which is the oldest gilda?
Does the Catalan gilda exist?
How is the Galician gilda different?
Is there a specific pairing per region?
Can all of them be made at home?
To conclude
Spain has as many gildas as it has coastal regions. If you only know the Basque version, try making the other regional variations: it offers a mini gastronomic tour of the north in a single appetizer.
Anchovies for your homemade gildas
Cantabrian anchovy size 00 if you want to assemble the regional gildas yourself.
