What is esqueixada de bacalao

What is esqueixada de bacalao?

Esqueixada (pronounced "es-key-SHA-da") is a cold salad made with raw, desalted cod, shredded by hand, with tomato, onion, black olives, and bell pepper. It's dressed with extra virgin olive oil and vinegar. Nothing more. Nothing less.

The name comes from the Catalan verb "esqueixar", which means to tear or shred. And therein lies the key: the cod is not cut with a knife, it's shredded with the fingers. This creates an irregular texture that better catches the dressing and gives character to the dish.

It is a summer dish by definition. In Catalonia, it's eaten from June to September, when tomatoes are at their peak and the heat calls for fresh dishes without cooking. But its simplicity is deceiving: making it well requires understanding cod, respecting timings, and not adding unnecessary ingredients.

Why esqueixada is special

Unlike other cooked cod salads, esqueixada uses raw, desalted cod. This preserves the full texture of the fish muscle, its clean flavor, and its ability to absorb the dressing. The result is a dish with its own personality, unlike any other Mediterranean salad.

History and origin: from farm dish to Catalan icon

Esqueixada has roots in 18th-century Catalan rural cuisine. Farmers (payeses) needed dishes that didn't require cooking, especially during harvest months. Salted cod, which could be preserved without refrigeration, was an ideal protein for the countryside.

The combination with tomato, onion, and oil is the same base for many Catalan summer dishes: pa amb tomàquet, escalivada, xatonada. Esqueixada fits perfectly into this tradition of raw or cold, simple, and powerful dishes.

In the 19th century, esqueixada already appeared in Catalan cookbooks as a Lenten dish: it was served on Fridays and during Lent, when meat was forbidden. This dual function (country dish and religious dish) consolidated it across all social strata.

Today, esqueixada is served in Michelin-starred restaurants and village homes alike. Carme Ruscalleda reinterpreted it with herring caviar. Ferran Adrià deconstructed it at El Bulli. But Grandma's version, with garden tomatoes and hand-desalted cod, remains unbeatable.

Traditional esqueixada recipe step-by-step

Ingredients (4 servings)

• 400 g thick salted cod (loin or center cut)
• 3 ripe vine tomatoes
• 1 spring onion (or half a white onion)
• 1 Italian green bell pepper
• 100 g black Aragón olives
• Extra virgin olive oil (Arbequina ideal)
• White wine vinegar (1-2 tablespoons)
• Salt (minimal, cod already provides some)

Step 1: Desalt the cod (24-48 hours in advance)

Cut the cod into large pieces and immerse it in cold water. Change the water every 8 hours, a minimum of 3 changes. For a thick loin of 3-4 cm, you will need 48 hours. For thinner pieces, 24 hours may be enough.

Professional tip: desalt in the refrigerator, not at room temperature. This prevents bacterial proliferation and maintains the firm texture of the cod.

Step 2: Shred the cod

Drain the cod well and pat it dry with paper towels. With your hands, shred the fibers following the natural direction of the muscle. Aim for irregular strips of 3-5 cm. Do not use a knife: shredded fibers absorb the dressing better.

Remove any bones or skin you find. Well-desalted cod for esqueixada should result in clean, juicy flakes.

Step 3: Prepare the vegetables

• Tomato: cut into medium cubes (1.5 cm). Do not blend or grate: you need chunky pieces.
• Onion: julienned finely. If using white onion instead of spring onion, soak it in ice water for 10 minutes to soften the pungency.
• Pepper: cut into thin strips or small cubes.
• Olives: whole or halved. Black Aragón olives are traditional.

Step 4: Assemble and dress

In a wide platter (never a deep bowl: esqueixada needs to breathe), first place the shredded cod. Add the tomato, onion, bell pepper, and olives.

Dress generously with extra virgin olive oil (don't skimp: oil is the sauce of this dish) and a touch of vinegar. Mix gently. Do not mash the cod.

Step 5: Rest and serve

Let the esqueixada rest for 15-20 minutes in the refrigerator before serving. This resting period allows the flavors to integrate and the cod to absorb some of the dressing.

Serve fresh, never completely cold. If you take it directly from the refrigerator, let it sit for 5 minutes at room temperature.

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The secret is in the cod: how to choose it

Not all cod is suitable for esqueixada. You need pieces with these characteristics:

The loin is the ideal part because it has long, compact fibers that shred into beautiful flakes. The tail, being thinner, falls apart too much and becomes pasty. Scraps can be used for croquettes, but not for esqueixada.

5 mistakes that ruin an esqueixada

1. Insufficient desalting. Poorly desalted cod makes esqueixada inedible. If you taste it before assembling and notice it's salty, put it back in the water. Better an extra day than a ruined dish.

2. Cutting the cod with a knife. The soul of esqueixada lies in hand-shredding. The irregular fibers create texture and absorb the dressing. A clean knife cut eliminates that.

3. Using mediocre tomatoes. If the tomato is not ripe, sweet, and flavorful, esqueixada loses half its charm. In winter, it's better not to make esqueixada.

4. Skimping on oil. Olive oil is the sauce of esqueixada. A sad drizzle is not enough. You need the oil to coat every ingredient.

5. Adding unnecessary ingredients. Lettuce, corn, canned tuna, surimi... Some people add everything. Traditional esqueixada has 6-7 ingredients and needs no more.

Regional variations: how esqueixada changes in Catalonia

Esqueixada is not monolithic. Each Catalan region has its own version, with nuances that reflect local produce.

The Empordà variant, with L'Escala anchovies, is probably the most luxurious. The anchovies add a layer of umami that transforms the dish. The Penedès variant, with xató sauce, is practically a different dish: richer and with a toasted nutty flavor.

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Modern esqueixada: signature versions

Contemporary Catalan chefs have taken esqueixada to another level without losing its essence:

• Esqueixada with citrus: pink grapefruit or blood orange instead of vinegar. The citric acid lightly "cooks" the surface of the cod.
• Esqueixada with avocado: the creaminess of the avocado contrasts with the firmness of the cod. It works surprisingly well.
• Esqueixada in a glass: presented in individual glasses as an event appetizer. Aesthetically powerful.
• Warm esqueixada: the cod is slightly warmed (30 seconds in oil at 50 °C). The texture changes completely: it becomes silky.
• Esqueixada with roe: trout or salmon roe on top. A touch of luxury that doesn't feel out of place.

All these versions are legitimate as long as they respect the base: shredded raw (or nearly raw) cod as the protagonist, and a dressing that doesn't overpower it.

Pairing: what to drink with an esqueixada

Esqueixada calls for fresh, young white wines. Here are the best options:

• Penedès white (Xarel·lo): fresh, mineral, with acidity that cleanses the palate between bites. The classic Catalan pairing.
• Alella white (Pansa Blanca): slightly fruity, ideal for an esqueixada with citrus.
• Cava Brut Nature: the bubbles cut through the oil's fat and the cod's residual salt. An impeccable combination.
• Txakoli: if you want a Basque-Catalan fusion. The acidity of txakoli pairs perfectly with raw cod.
• Artisanal wheat beer: for those who prefer beer. The wheat has enough softness not to overpower the dish.

Nutritional value: why it's so healthy

Esqueixada is one of the most balanced dishes in the Mediterranean diet:

High in protein, low in carbohydrates, rich in healthy fats from olive oil and omega-3 from cod. Without cooking, the nutrients from tomato and onion remain intact. It's a dish that fits perfectly into Mediterranean, low-carb, or protein-rich diets.

Frequently asked questions