In short: A guide to where to eat excellent cocochas/kokotxas in Spain: San Sebastián (Kokotxa, Etxebarri, Casa Urola), Barcelona (Sagardi, Lasarte), Madrid (Donostiarra, Goizeko Kabi). At home version: 70% cheaper.
Table of Contents
What are cocochas and why are they called that?
Cocochas (in Spanish) or kokotxas (in Basque) are the "jowl" or soft area located under the lower jaw of cod or hake. Each fish produces two cocochas (one on each side of the jaw), of variable size (15-30g each).
It is a highly prized cut for its gelatinous texture: the area contains a lot of natural collagen that transforms into a soft gelatin when cooked. It has very few bones, making it ideal for dishes where a texture without effort is sought.
Traditionally, they were considered "waste" — fishermen would discard them or consume them among themselves. But the development of high Basque cuisine during the 20th century elevated them to a premium product. Today, a kilo of fresh cocochas can cost €80-120 at the fish market.
The best cocochas in San Sebastián (Donostia)
San Sebastián is the birthplace of modern cocochas cuisine. Emblematic places:
Kokotxa (Old Town): the restaurant is named after the cut. World-renowned cocochas al pil pil. 1 Michelin star.
Asador Etxebarri (Atxondo, near Donostia): Bittor Arginzoniz. Grilled kokotxas, a unique technique in the world. 3 Michelin stars.
Casa Urola: classic kokotxa al pil pil pintxo, €5/piece.
Goiz Argi: traditional at the pintxo bar in the Old Town. Cod kokotxas always available.
Bar Sport: a meeting point for pintxotegis. Notable kokotxa in green sauce.
Cocochas in Barcelona
Barcelona has a good offering of Basque cuisine, although it is not its native land:
Sagardi (various locations): chain with good Basque-pintxos cuisine. Cocochas on the menu.
Lasarte (Pg de Gràcia): Martín Berasategui in Barcelona. Michelin-star level cocochas al pil pil (3 stars).
Euskal Etxea Taberna (Born): Basque house, authentic atmosphere, kokotxas as a tapa.
Mercat del Ninot: Bacalalo sells cocochas to prepare at home. Some stalls have fresh cocochas on specific days.
Cocochas in Madrid
Madrid also has good Basque cuisine due to the significant Basque presence in the capital:
Asador Donostiarra (Chamartín): a classic of Basque cuisine in Madrid. Cocochas al pil pil are common.
Vasca Bilbao: authentic Bilbao atmosphere in Madrid.
Goizeko Kabi: high Basque cuisine, kokotxas in tasting menu.
La Tasquita de Enfrente: Juanjo López, cocochas when in season.
Mercado de Vallehermoso: fresh cocochas at some stalls.
Cooking them at home: cheaper and more satisfying
If you buy cocochas for home, you save 70-80% versus a restaurant. Commercial desalinated cocochas cost around €25-45/kg. Per person, 100-120g (3-4 cocochas) are estimated.
The basic recipes are pil pil and green sauce. See dedicated guides below. The technique requires patience but is not complicated.
Bacalalo Desalinated Cocochas
Desalinated cod cocochas, ready for pil pil or green sauce. Gourmet quality from Mercat del Ninot. Guaranteed refrigerated shipping.
Frequently asked questions
What exactly are cocochas?
Cod or hake cocochas: which are better?
Where are the best cocochas eaten in San Sebastián?
And in Barcelona, where to eat them?
In Madrid?
How much do cocochas cost in a restaurant?
Can you eat cocochas at home?
To conclude
Eating cocochas in a quality restaurant is a memorable experience, but cooking them at home with good product gives you 90% of the experience at 20% of the price. If you have time and desire, Bacalalo desalinated cocochas + 30 minutes of patience for the pil pil = gourmet dinner for €6-8 per person.
The entire Bacalalo cod range
If you love cocochas, try the rest: loins, shredded, derivatives. Artisan selection since 1990.
