Salted Cod: History, Process, and How to Use It in Cooking
Salted cod is one of the most important foods in European history — the protein that nourished sailors, soldiers, monks, and entire families for centuries before refrigeration existed. Today, when we can freeze any fish, salting persists not out of necessity but for quality: the curing process transforms fresh cod into a product with more flavor, more texture, and more versatility than its frozen equivalent. This guide covers the history, curing process, cuts, and everything you need to work with salted cod like a professional.
Table of Contents
What is salted cod
Salting is an ancient preservation technique that involves covering cod with coarse salt for weeks, followed by a drying process that reduces the moisture content of the flesh to 15-20%. The result is a product stable at room temperature, with a shelf life of months or even years, which concentrates flavor and transforms the texture of the flesh in a way no other process achieves.
Gadus morhua is the ideal fish for salting for a biological reason: its flesh is exceptionally lean (less than 1% fat). Fatty fish — salmon, tuna, sardines — do not tolerate prolonged salting well because the fat becomes rancid. Cod, with its white and virtually fat-free flesh, dehydrates cleanly, developing complex flavor without the risk of rancidity.
The process is not simply "adding salt": it is a complete biochemical transformation. The fish's own enzymes act on the proteins during salting, creating free amino acids and peptides that are responsible for the intense, umami flavor of salted cod. It is the same type of transformation that turns milk into cheese or grapes into wine — salt is the catalyst, but enzymes do the magic.
History of salted cod
The Vikings and stockfish (9th-12th century)
The first to exploit cod on a large scale were the Vikings, but they did not use salt — they air-dried the fish in the cold Arctic air. The result, called stockfish (tørrfisk in Norwegian), was cod as dry and hard as wood that preserved for years. This stockfish was the protein fuel for Viking expeditions to Iceland, Greenland, and North America.
Salt changes the rules (13th-15th century)
The salting of cod began when Southern European trade routes brought cheap sea salt north. The Basques were probably the first to combine salt with cod, creating the product we know today. Salt not only preserved: it improved flavor and texture, producing a gastronomically superior result to stockfish.
Basque fishermen traveled to the North Atlantic — possibly to Newfoundland before Columbus — to catch cod, salt it on board, and bring it back to Cantabrian ports. This practice gave rise to an industry that for centuries was one of the economic drivers of the Basque Country.
The cod empire (16th-19th century)
The official discovery of the Grand Banks of Newfoundland in 1497 multiplied the supply. Portugal, Spain, France, England, and Holland sent entire fleets to fish for cod. Salted cod became the basic protein for:
- The Catholic Church: essential during fast days and Lent, when meat could not be eaten. In an era with more than 150 days of abstinence a year, cod was the primary protein alternative.
- Navies: salted cod fed the crews of the Spanish Armada, the French fleet, and the Royal Navy.
- The slave trade: low-quality salted cod was exported to Caribbean plantations as food for enslaved people — a dark chapter in the product's history.
- Families in Southern Europe: in Portugal, Spain, Italy, and Greece, salted cod was the accessible protein that reached areas without access to the sea.
The 20th century and industrialization
Refrigeration and freezing reduced the need for salting as a preservation method. But instead of disappearing, salted cod was revalued as a gourmet product. Demand remained because the flavor and texture of salted and desalinated cod are different — and superior in many applications — to frozen cod.
Today, Norway and Iceland are the main producers of salted cod, with Portugal, Spain, Italy, and Brazil as the main consumers.
The curing process: from fresh to salted cod
The modern industrial process maintains the principles of traditional curing with scientific control of temperatures and times.
Phase 1: Catch and evisceration
Cod is caught in North Atlantic waters (Norway, Iceland, Faroe Islands). It is immediately eviscerated and bled on board. The speed of evisceration is critical: digestive enzymes can begin to degrade the flesh within hours.
Phase 2: Opening and cleaning
The cod is butterfly-cut (cut along the belly), removing the backbone and leaving the flesh exposed in two loins joined by the tail. This format maximizes the surface contact with salt.
Phase 3: Salting in stacks (2-3 weeks)
The opened cod are stacked, alternating layers of coarse salt and fish. The ratio is approximately 1 part salt to 3 parts fish. The salt acts by osmosis: it extracts water from inside the flesh while penetrating the cells. This process lasts between 2 and 3 weeks. The temperature is maintained between 0 °C and 4 °C to prevent bacterial growth.
Phase 4: Washing
After salting, the cod is washed with water to remove excessive superficial salt. This step is quick: it only removes external salt without affecting that which has penetrated the flesh.
Phase 5: Drying (variable)
Drying can be:
- Natural (air): on outdoor drying racks, as done in Norway's Lofoten Islands. Slow process (weeks), produces a result with more flavor complexity. Depends on the climate.
- Industrial (drying tunnel): in chambers with controlled temperature and humidity. Faster (days), more uniform but less complex result.
- Minimal or no drying (moist salted cod): the cod is sold directly after salting, without drying. It has more water, less intense flavor, but is easier to desalt.
| Phase | Duration | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Evisceration | Hours | Viscera and blood removed to prevent enzymatic degradation |
| Salting in stacks | 2-3 weeks | Osmosis: salt enters, water leaves. Moisture drops from 80% to 50% |
| Washing | Hours | Excess superficial salt is removed |
| Drying | Days to weeks | Final moisture: 15-20%. Maximum flavor concentration |
Shredded Dry Salted Cod - 500g
We offer both dry salted cod (for those who want full desalting control) and professionally desalinated cod (ready to cook). Both 100% Gadus morhua from the North Atlantic.
Types of salted cod
Dry salted cod (clipfish / bacalhau seco)
The classic product: salted and dried to 15-20% moisture. Hard, firm, yellowish-golden color. Needs 48 hours of desalting. It is the most intense in flavor and works best for traditional recipes (pil pil, vizcaína, bacalao dorado).
Moist salted cod (saltfisk / bacalhau verde)
Salted but not dried (or minimally dried). Moisture content of 50-55%. Softer and more flexible. Needs only 24 hours of desalting. Less intense flavor but closer to fresh cod. Popular in Scandinavia.
Brined cod
Submerged in a solution of water and salt (brine) instead of stacked in dry salt. Faster but less intense process. The result is softer and less complex than dry salting.
Cuts of salted cod
| Cut | Description | Thickness | Best use | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Loin | Dorsal part, boneless, skin on one side | 4-6 cm | Pan-fried, baked, pil pil, green sauce | €€€€ |
| Center cut | Transversal slice with central bone | 3-5 cm | Green sauce, baked, stews | €€€ |
| Tail | Caudal end, thinner | 1-3 cm | Fritters, croquettes, salad | €€ |
| Shredded cod | Irregular trimmings from filleting | Variable | Croquettes, fritters, scrambled eggs, empanada | € |
| Kokotxas | Cod jowl/cheeks | 2-3 cm | Pil pil, battered, in green sauce | €€€€€ |
Each cut has its ideal recipe. If you want to delve into the differences, our complete guide to dry salted cod and cuts details everything you need to know.
How to choose quality salted cod
- Species: must be Gadus morhua (Atlantic cod). Check the scientific name on the label. Any other species is an inferior substitute.
- Color: uniform white-yellowish. Golden tones indicate natural air drying. Never grayish (poor preservation) or translucent (excess moisture).
- Smell: pleasant, of salt and sea. No ammonia, acidic, or rancid smell.
- Texture: firm and dry to the touch. The flakes of the flesh should be visible through the salt. If it is soft or sticky, it is not a good product.
- Thickness: quality cod produces thick pieces. A 5-6 cm thick loin indicates a large, well-cured cod. Thin and flat pieces are an indicator of small specimens or lesser species.
- Origin: Norway (especially Lofoten Islands), Iceland, and the Faroe Islands produce the best salted cod in the world.
Desalting: the step that defines the outcome
Desalting is the operation that separates an excellent cod dish from a mediocre one. Incorrect desalting produces cod that is too salty, too soft, or with a rubbery texture.
Professional method
Cut the cod into the portions you will use. Place them skin-side up in a large container. Cover with plenty of cold water (3 times the volume of the cod). Refrigerate at 4-5 °C. Change the water every 8 hours.
| Type of cod | Desalting time | Water changes |
|---|---|---|
| Dry salted (thick loin) | 48 hours | 6 changes (every 8h) |
| Dry salted (center/tail) | 36 hours | 4-5 changes |
| Moist salted | 24 hours | 3 changes |
| Shredded cod | 18-24 hours | 3 changes |
For the complete guide with all the details, consult our article how to properly desalt cod. It is the most consulted content on our blog, and for good reason: good desalting is the foundation of everything.
Desalinated Cod Brandade - 250g
If you prefer to skip desalting, our desalinated cod arrives ready to cook. 48 hours of desalting with water changes controlled by professionals from Mercat del Ninot. The exact amount of salt for every recipe.
Salted cod in cooking
Salted cod, once desalinated, is the basic ingredient for hundreds of recipes in the Mediterranean tradition. Salting transforms the fish in three ways that matter in cooking:
- Concentrates flavor: by losing 60-70% of its water, flavor compounds are concentrated. Desalinated cod has more flavor than frozen cod.
- Compacts fibers: dehydration and salt create a structure of firm flakes that remain during cooking. This is why desalinated cod holds up on the griddle and produces pil pil.
- Increases available gelatin: collagen concentrates during salting. When cooked, this gelatin is released and acts as a natural thickener — it is the base of pil pil sauce and the reason why cod sauces have that silky texture.
Essential recipes with salted cod
- Cod in green sauce — the quintessential Basque sauce
- Pil pil — the emulsion of gelatin and oil
- Baked cod — the most versatile option
- Cod croquettes — the perfect use of leftovers
- Cod brandade — the Franco-Provençal recipe
Home storage
Dry salted cod (unsalted)
In a cool, dry place (10-15 °C), wrapped in breathable paper or cloth: up to 6 months. In the refrigerator, wrapped in plastic wrap: up to 1 year. Do not store in a sealed plastic bag — it needs some air circulation.
Desalinated cod
In the refrigerator, covered with water: maximum 3 days. Frozen (well wrapped): up to 3 months. Once desalinated, cod is perishable like any fresh fish.
Frequently asked questions
Why is salted cod so expensive?
Several factors: the raw material is Gadus morhua from the North Atlantic (already expensive), the salting and drying process takes weeks, the weight loss during curing is 40-50% (1 kg of fresh cod produces 500-600 g of salted cod), and the labor for filleting and selection is significant. You are paying for a concentrated product.
Can you eat salted cod without desalting?
It is not recommended. Dry salted cod has a salt concentration of 20-25%, which makes it excessively salty and even harmful to health if consumed without desalting. Desalting is an essential, not optional, step.
How much does cod weigh after desalting?
Dry salted cod absorbs water during desalting and increases its weight by 30% to 50%. 500 g of dry cod becomes 650-750 g of desalinated cod. Keep this in mind when calculating portions for recipes.
Is dry cod the same as salted cod?
Not exactly. Salted cod (saltfisk) is cod cured in salt without drying — wetter, softer, desalinated in 24h. Dry salted cod (clipfish/bacalao) has gone through salting and drying — harder, more flavorful, desalinated in 48h. They are different products with different uses, although they are often used interchangeably in Spanish.
What happens if I over-desalt?
If you desalt for too long, the cod loses flavor and the texture becomes soft and watery — it loses the firmness that distinguishes it from frozen cod. The solution: taste a small piece during desalting (at 36h for loins). If it is still salty, continue. If it tastes like fish with a pleasant hint of salt, it is ready.
Can I speed up desalting?
There are tricks that partially speed it up: cutting the cod into smaller portions (more surface contact with water) and changing the water more frequently. But never use hot water, milk, or other shortcuts — they alter the texture and flavor. Proper desalting requires time and cold water. There are no good shortcuts.
Shredded Dry Salted Cod - 500g
For purists who want to control the entire process: our dry salted cod is Gadus morhua from the North Atlantic cured with the traditional dry salting method. You decide when to desalt, how much to desalt, and how to cut it.
Conclusion
Salted cod is not an outdated product — it is a product that has survived refrigeration because it is qualitatively different (and superior in many applications) from frozen cod. Salting concentrates flavor, compacts fibers, and generates gelatin. These three transformations are what allow you to make a pil pil, a green sauce that emulsifies on its own, or pan-fried cod with defined flakes.
Understanding the salting process gives you perspective as a cook: you are not simply "desalting fish" — you are working with a transformed product that carries centuries of accumulated knowledge. With discernment, not slogans.
