Cod in Pil Pil Sauce, Berasategui Style: Recipe with Haute Cuisine Techniques

Berasategui and pil pil: haute cuisine with Basque roots

Martín Berasategui is one of Spain's most acclaimed chefs, with three Michelin stars at his restaurant in Lasarte-Oria and a gastronomic empire that spans several countries. His cuisine is distinguished by an obsession with technique, absolute respect for the product, and a tireless pursuit of perfection in every detail.

Bacalao al pil pil is, in essence, a dish with only three ingredients: cod, olive oil, and garlic. But in Berasategui's hands, this apparent simplicity hides a fascinating technical complexity. His approach transforms traditional pil pil—a farm and cider house dish—into a gastronomic experience of millimeter precision.

The difference between a homemade pil pil and one in the style of Martín Berasategui lies in the details: the exact temperature of the oil, the speed of the circular motion, the precise moment when the collagen begins to emulsify, and a presentation that turns a humble dish into something visually extraordinary.

This recipe is inspired by Berasategui's philosophy and technique, adapted so you can execute it at home with professional-level results. It is not the exact recipe from his restaurant, but an interpretation faithful to his principles of precision and excellence.

For a Berasategui-level pil pil, cod is everything. At Bacalalo, we have been selecting Icelandic cod since 1990: pieces with high collagen content, the substance that makes pil pil's emulsion possible. Without quality collagen, pil pil is not possible.

The science behind the pil pil emulsion

Before cooking, Berasategui understands the science. And to master pil pil, it's wise to understand it too. Pil pil sauce is an oil-in-water emulsion stabilized by collagen. It works like this:

If you want to see our entire selection of cod that we work with at Bacalalo, you'll find the catalog grouped with desalted, salted, dried, Icelandic, smoked, brandade, and kokotxas all in one place.

• Collagen is a protein present in the skin and flesh of cod. When heated slowly (between 50-70°C), it dissolves in the oil and acts as a natural emulsifier.
• Circular motion (back and forth) disperses the dissolved collagen molecules throughout the oil, creating a network that traps micro-droplets of water from the cod itself.
• Temperature is critical. Below 50°C, collagen does not dissolve. Above 80°C, proteins denature too quickly and do not emulsify correctly. The optimal window is between 55-70°C.

Berasategui treats this process with laboratory precision. Every degree matters. Every movement has a purpose. It's not improvised cooking—it's gastronomic engineering applied to an ancient dish.

Ingredients for Berasategui-style pil pil

For 4 people

• 4 Icelandic cod loins (200-250 g each, with skin, desalted)
• 300 ml extra virgin olive oil (mild, Arbequina or young Picual)
• 8 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced (2 mm uniform thickness)
• 1-2 dried chilies (cayenne or choricero, seedless)
• Flake salt (for finishing)

Recommended equipment

• Clay casserole dish (ideal) or heavy-bottomed frying pan
• Kitchen thermometer (important for temperature control)
• Fine-mesh strainer

Step-by-step: the complete technique

Step 1: Perfect desalting (48 hours beforehand)

Desalting cod for pil pil requires more care than for other dishes. The loins should be slightly salted—neither bland nor overly salty. Desalt in cold water in the refrigerator for 48 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. If you prefer, use pre-desalted cod from Bacalalo, calibrated to the right point.

Meticulously dry the loins with kitchen paper. Surface moisture is the enemy of emulsion: free water splashes in the oil and hinders clean collagen extraction.

Step 2: Confit the garlic (temperature controlled)

Pour the 300 ml of olive oil into the clay casserole dish. Add the sliced garlic and chilies. Heat over minimum heat until the oil reaches 60-65°C (use a thermometer). Confit the garlic for 8-10 minutes at this temperature, without letting it brown beyond a very light straw color.

Berasategui seeks confit garlic, not fried. The difference is substantial: confit garlic adds sweetness and depth; fried garlic adds bitterness. When the garlic is tender and barely golden, remove it with a slotted spoon along with the chilies and set aside.

Step 3: Cook the cod in the oil (the critical phase)

With the infused oil still at about 55-60°C, place the cod loins skin side up. This detail is essential: the skin contains the highest concentration of collagen and must be in contact with the hot oil to release its proteins.

Cook over minimum heat, maintaining the temperature between 55-65°C for 15-20 minutes. Don't rush. During this time, the collagen in the skin and flesh slowly dissolves into the oil. You'll see the oil start to become slightly cloudy and viscous—that's the sign that the collagen is being released.

Carefully flip the loins (skin down) and cook for 5 more minutes. The cod should be pearlescent, juicy, with the flakes barely separated. If the flakes separate easily and the flesh is white and opaque in the center, it's perfect.

Step 4: Remove the cod and create the emulsion

Carefully remove the loins to a warm plate and cover with aluminum foil to keep them warm. Now comes the decisive moment: creating the emulsion.

Let the oil cool slightly to 45-50°C. This temperature is crucial—too hot and the emulsion won't form; too cold and the collagen solidifies before emulsifying.

Begin the rocking motion: move the casserole with a slow, constant circular motion. Berasategui's key is patience—for the first 2-3 minutes, you won't see any change. Keep moving. Gradually, the oil will begin to thicken and change color, going from transparent-yellow to whitish and creamy.

This process can take 8-15 minutes of continuous rocking. If the emulsion doesn't start, add a tablespoon of cold water to the oil and continue moving—the thermal shock sometimes reactivates the process.

Step 5: Refine the sauce

When the sauce has the consistency of light mayonnaise and a uniform ivory color, it's ready. If you want an even finer finish in Berasategui style, strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any solid residue and achieve an absolutely smooth texture.

Return the confit garlic to the sauce and heat very gently. Taste for salt—usually, it doesn't need more, but adjust if necessary.

Mistakes that break the emulsion

Pil pil is a dish that is not very forgiving. These are the most common mistakes and how to avoid them with the precision Berasategui demands:

• Excessive temperature: If the oil exceeds 80°C, the collagen proteins denature too quickly and lose their emulsifying capacity. Use a thermometer and do not exceed 65°C during cod cooking.
• Cod without collagen: Low-quality cod, with thin skin or no skin, does not have enough collagen to emulsify. Always use thick-skinned Icelandic cod loins.
• Stirring with a spoon: Just like with green sauce, pil pil is emulsified by rocking the pan, never with a spoon. A spoon breaks the forming emulsion.
• Rushing: Pil pil needs a minimum of 15 minutes of slow cooking to extract enough collagen. Shortening this time results in oil with garlic but no sauce.
• Wet cod: Surface water on the loins causes splashing and hinders collagen dissolution in the oil. Always dry with kitchen paper.
• Strong olive oil: A mature or very bitter Picual oil competes with the delicate flavor of cod. Berasategui prefers mild oils like Arbequina or young Picual.

If the emulsion breaks during the process, all is not lost. Remove the cod, let the oil cool to 40°C, add a spoonful of very cold water, and restart the rocking motion. Sometimes it can be recovered. If not, filter the oil and use it for another preparation—garlic oil, for example.

Berasategui-style presentation

The presentation is where you notice the difference between a homemade pil pil and one in the style of a three-Michelin-star chef. Berasategui pays attention to every visual detail with the same precision as the technique.

• Preheated deep plate: Serve in a white deep plate, slightly warmed so the sauce doesn't cool.
• Centered loin: A single loin per plate, placed skin-side up, perfectly centered.
• Sauce around: Pour the pil pil sauce with a spoon, surrounding the loin without covering it. The sauce should look creamy and shiny.
• Confit garlic: Three or four garlic slices strategically placed on the loin.
• Chili: A small piece of chili as a red color accent against the white of the cod and the ivory of the sauce.
• Parsley oil (optional): A few drops of parsley oil (blanched parsley crushed with oil and strained) add a green color contrast that Berasategui frequently uses.
• Flake salt: A few Maldon salt flakes on the loin just before serving, to add texture and a crunchy touch of saltiness.

The key to Berasategui's presentation is restraint: less is more. A clean plate, contrasting colors, simple geometry. The absolute protagonist is the cod and its sauce.

Frequently Asked Questions