Golden Cod Arguiñano Style: Portuguese Recipe with Eggs and Potatoes

Arguiñano and gilded cod: an Iberian classic

Karlos Arguiñano has a declared fondness for Portuguese cod cuisine. "The Portuguese have more than 365 cod recipes, one for each day of the year," he has said more than once on his show. And among them all, gilded cod (bacalhau à Brás) is the one he has prepared the most — for a simple reason: it's spectacular with humble ingredients.

Gilded cod is proof that humble cooking can be haute cuisine. It was born in Lisbon taverns as a way to use leftover cod, potatoes, and a few eggs. Today it is a menu item in the best Portuguese restaurants and has crossed the border to settle into Spanish cuisine with complete naturalness.

This version is inspired by Karlos Arguiñano's style, who adds his personal touch: more olive oil than usual, a long and patient onion sofrito, and a precise technique with the eggs that leaves the dish creamy without being liquid. At Bacalalo, since 1990 in Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot, we know that the quality of cod makes all the difference in this dish where cod is the absolute protagonist.

Origin of bacalhau à Brás

The name "à Brás" comes from the Lisbon tavern keeper who popularized the dish in the late 19th century — a certain Brás, owner of an establishment in Lisbon's Bairro Alto. Legend has it that he invented it one night to use leftover cod and potatoes from the day before, adding some eggs to bind it all together.

In Spain, the dish arrived under different names: bacalao dorado (for the color given by the egg), bacalao a la portuguesa, or simply bacalao con patatas y huevo. The version that Arguiñano has popularized follows the original Portuguese recipe but with his own touches: a more elaborate onion sofrito and a typically Basque generosity with olive oil.

What's interesting about this dish is that it works equally well as an informal dinner or a luxurious tapa. In Portugal, it is served in generous portions as a main course; in the Basque Country, Arguiñano has adapted it as a pintxo or tapa in smaller portions.

Ingredients for gilded cod (4 servings)

• 400g of desalinated Icelandic cod, flaked
• 400g of potatoes, cut into fine straw (or pre-packaged straw potatoes as a shortcut)
• 6 eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 large onions, thinly julienned
• 3 cloves of garlic, sliced
• 100g of black olives, pitted
• Plenty of extra virgin olive oil (for frying potatoes + sofrito)
• Fresh parsley, chopped
• Salt and black pepper

Step-by-step preparation

Step 1: Prepare the cod

If using dried cod, desalt it in cold water for 48 hours in the refrigerator, changing the water every 8-10 hours. If you prefer to skip this step, at Bacalalo we offer pre-desalted cod ready to use.

Blanch the desalinated cod in simmering water (not boiling) for 5-6 minutes. Drain it, let it cool, and flake it into thin pieces with your hands, carefully removing bones and skin. The flakes should be irregular but not too small — if you break them up too much, the dish loses texture.

Step 2: Fry the straw potatoes

Cut the potatoes into very fine julienne (2-3 mm), like matchsticks. If you have a mandoline, use it — the regularity of the cut matters for even frying.

Heat plenty of olive oil in a wide skillet to 180°C. Fry the potatoes in batches without overcrowding, for 2-3 minutes until golden and crispy. Drain them on absorbent paper. Arguiñano unashamedly admits that he sometimes uses pre-packaged straw potatoes: "if they're good, there's no shame."

Step 3: The onion sofrito

In a large skillet (the largest you have), heat 4-5 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the thinly sliced onion and garlic. Sauté for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is completely transparent, sweet, and almost melted. This step is key: undercooked onion ruins the dish; caramelized onion enhances it.

Step 4: Incorporate the cod

Slightly raise the heat to medium. Add the flaked cod to the caramelized onion and mix carefully for 3-4 minutes. The cod should heat through and absorb the flavors of the sofrito without overcooking. If the cod breaks up too much at this stage, the dish loses its characteristic flaked texture.

Step 5: The potatoes and eggs

This is the most delicate step and the one that defines the dish's success. Add the fried straw potatoes and mix with gentle, folding movements. The potatoes will begin to lose some of their crispness upon contact with moisture — this is normal and desirable: the final texture should be half crispy, half soft.

Lower the heat to minimum. Pour the beaten eggs over the cod and potato mixture. Stir constantly with broad, gentle movements, as if making scrambled eggs, for 2-3 minutes. The eggs should set slightly, enveloping the cod and potatoes in a creamy, glossy layer. The most common mistake is to overcook the eggs: they should remain juicy and creamy, never dry or set like an omelet.

Remove from heat when the eggs still look a little liquid — residual heat will finish setting them. Add the black olives and chopped parsley.

Arguiñano's tricks for a perfect gilded cod

• Caramelized onion, not fried: The onion needs 15-20 minutes over low heat. If you cook it in 5 minutes over high heat, it will be raw and pungent instead of sweet and silky.
• Eggs off the heat: The secret is to remove the pan from the heat before the eggs are completely set. The residual heat from the pan and potatoes will finish the job. Arguiñano says: "if the eggs look done in the pan, they will be overcooked on the plate."
• Flakes, not crumbs: The cod should be flaked into recognizable pieces, not pulverized. The texture of gilded cod depends on finding pieces of cod among the potatoes and egg.
• Black olives at the end: Add them when you turn off the heat. If you cook them with the rest, they release a dark liquid that stains the whole dish black.
• Thin straw potatoes: The thinner the potatoes, the better the result. Thick potatoes do not absorb the egg correctly and remain an alien body in the dish.
• Generous olive oil: This dish needs plenty of oil at each stage. The oil's richness is what binds the flavors and gives the final dish its sheen.

Presentation and accompaniments

Gilded cod is served immediately, freshly made, when the potatoes still retain some crispness and the eggs are creamy:

• Serve on a flat platter or in the same skillet if it is presentable
• Garnish with whole black olives on top, artfully arranged
• Generously sprinkle fresh chopped parsley
• A couple of sprigs of parsley as decoration
• Accompany with a green salad dressed with a lemon vinaigrette to cut through the richness

As a tapa or pintxo, serve small portions on crispy toast or in appetizer spoons. In Portugal, it is often served with white rice on the side, which may seem excessive but works surprisingly well.

Variations of gilded cod

• With piquillo peppers: Add 6-8 piquillo peppers cut into strips along with the onion. They provide sweetness and a red color that contrasts with the yellow of the egg.
• With shrimp: Add 8 sautéed peeled shrimp on top as a luxurious garnish. The cod-shrimp combination is a Portuguese classic.
• Gratin: Place the gilded cod in an ovenproof dish and gratin with grated cheese for 3 minutes under the broiler. It's not the most orthodox version but it's irresistible.
• Light version: Replace fried potatoes with mashed cooked potatoes. Less crispy but lighter and without frying.

Frequently asked questions