Cod for pil pil: which piece to choose so that it releases gelatin and binds well

The secret to the perfect cod for pil pil

Pil pil is much more than a Basque culinary technique. It's a dance between oil, garlic, and the natural gelatin of the cod that requires precision and, above all, the right cut of fish . Not all cuts are suitable for achieving the perfect emulsion that characterizes this iconic dish.

The magic of pil pil lies in its apparent simplicity, but behind that simplicity lies a deep understanding of the gelling properties of cod. Each piece of fish contributes different amounts of collagen, and this variability determines the success or failure of your preparation.

The star pieces: penca and kokotxas

The cod fillet: the gelatinous heart

The cod fillet is the ventral part of the fish, the fleshy area located between the head and the pectoral fins. This region contains an extraordinary amount of hydrolyzable collagen , making each fiber a small factory of natural gelatin.

When you properly desalinate a quality chard stalk, you'll immediately notice its unique texture. It's denser than the stalk, yet more flexible. Its muscle fibers are interwoven with a network of connective tissue which, when gently heated, releases the proteins necessary to emulsify the olive oil.

The fillets of Icelandic or Norwegian cod have superior characteristics due to their cold water origin. These specimens develop additional layers of fat and collagen as an adaptation to the environment, resulting in pieces with greater gelling potential.

Cocochas: small gelatinous jewels

Cod cheeks , known in Basque as kokotxas de bacalá , represent the absolute pinnacle of pil pil sauce. These small, triangular pieces, taken from the underside of the head, contain the highest concentration of gelatin per gram of any part of the fish.

Their unique composition makes them a favorite ingredient of specialized chefs. A single cod cheek can provide enough collagen to bind a considerable amount of oil, creating that silky, glossy texture that characterizes the perfect pil pil sauce.

The manual extraction of the cod cheeks requires experience and precision. Each piece must maintain its outer membrane intact, as this is where much of its emulsifying power is concentrated.

Preparation techniques to maximize gelatin

Desalting: the first step towards success

Proper desalting not only removes excess salt but also prepares the cod's fibers to optimally release their gelatin. The process should be carried out in cold water, changing it every 8-12 hours for a period of 24-48 hours, depending on the thickness of the piece.

During desalting, the proteins in the cod rehydrate and the muscle fibers regain some of their original elasticity. This phenomenon, known as protein retrogradation , is essential for the subsequent development of the emulsion.

Water temperature directly influences the final result. Water that is too warm can prematurely denature proteins, reducing their subsequent gelling capacity.

How to get a pil pil: the movement technique

The secret to making a pil pil gelatin emulsion lies in precise temperature control and constant movement of the pan. The emulsion forms when the proteins released by the cod act as natural emulsifying agents between the oil and the fish juices.

The movement should be circular and constant, but never aggressive. The aim is to create a gentle vortex that allows the oil to gradually incorporate with the gelling proteins. The ideal temperature ranges between 60-70°C, sufficient to activate the gelatin without coagulating the proteins.

Factors that determine the best cod for pil pil

Origin and quality of the fish

The best cod for pil pil comes from the waters of the North Atlantic, specifically Iceland and Norway. These fish develop unique characteristics due to the extreme conditions of their natural habitat.

The krill and small crustacean diet of these cold waters gives cod a unique lipid profile. Furthermore, the need for thermoregulation in icy waters stimulates the production of additional collagen in its tissues.

A quality cod for pil pil sauce has firm but not rigid flesh, a pearly white color, and no ammonia odors. Its texture should be slightly elastic to the touch, indicating proper preservation of the structural proteins.

The artisanal cut makes all the difference

Hand-cutting respects the integrity of the muscle fibers and preserves the membranes that contain the highest concentration of collagen. Industrial cutting, on the other hand, can break these delicate structures, significantly reducing the fish's gelling potential.

The direction of the cut also influences the final result. Cuts perpendicular to the fibers expose a greater surface area of ​​connective tissue, facilitating the release of gelatin during cooking.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

One of the most common mistakes is using pieces of cod with low collagen content, such as the central loin. Although it's the most prized part for other dishes, it lacks the gelatinous structure necessary for a successful pil pil sauce.

Excessive temperature is another critical factor. Many amateur cooks raise the heat too high, causing the proteins to coagulate rapidly and preventing the formation of the characteristic emulsion.

• Not using enough extra virgin olive oil
• Moving the saucepan irregularly or aggressively
• Adding the garlic too soon or burning it
• Use insufficiently desalted cod
• Cooking at too high a temperature

Frequently asked questions about cod for pil pil

Can you make pil pil with fresh cod?
Although technically possible, salted cod provides a modified protein structure that promotes emulsification. The salting process transforms the proteins, creating a matrix more conducive to binding.

How much cod do I need per person?
For cod cheeks, allow approximately 80-100 grams per person. If using sea bream, increase the amount to 120-150 grams, as part of the weight is bone and cartilage.

Can I freeze cod already prepared for pil pil sauce?
Freezing breaks the emulsion of the pil pil sauce. It is preferable to freeze the desalted cod before preparation and always make the stew with fresh cod.

Mastering pil pil transcends culinary technique, becoming an art that connects tradition, product, and knowledge. The correct choice of cod determines 70% of the final success, transforming each preparation into a celebration of the authentic flavors of the Cantabrian Sea.