Golden Cod Arguiñano Style: Portuguese Recipe with Eggs and Potatoes

Arguiñano and gilded cod: an Iberian classic

Karlos Arguiñano has a declared weakness for Portuguese cod cuisine. "The Portuguese have more than 365 cod recipes, one for each day of the year," he has said more than once on his show. And among them all, gilded cod (bacalhau à Brás) is the one he has prepared the most — for a simple reason: it's spectacular with humble ingredients.

Gilded cod is proof that resourcefulness in cooking can be haute cuisine. It was born in the taverns of Lisbon as a way to use leftover cod, potatoes, and a few eggs. Today it is a menu item in the best Portuguese restaurants and has crossed the border to settle into Spanish cuisine quite naturally.

This version is inspired by Karlos Arguiñano's style, which adds his personal touch: more olive oil than usual, a long and patient onion sofrito, and a precise technique with the eggs that leaves the dish creamy without being liquid. At Bacalalo, since 1990 in the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, we know that the quality of the cod makes all the difference in this dish where cod is the absolute protagonist.

Origin of bacalhau à Brás

The name "à Brás" comes from the Lisbon tavern owner who popularized the dish at the end of the 19th century — a certain Brás, owner of an establishment in Lisbon's Bairro Alto. Legend has it that he invented it one night to use leftover cod and potatoes from the day before, adding some eggs to bind everything together.

You can find view Bacalalo cod directly on the catalog page: desalted, salted, Icelandic, smoked, cod cheeks and brandade, all selected piece by piece.

In Spain, the dish arrived under different names: bacalao dorado (gilded cod, due to the color from the egg), bacalao a la portuguesa (Portuguese-style cod), or simply bacalao con patatas y huevo (cod with potatoes and egg). The version that Arguiñano has popularized follows the original Portuguese recipe but with his own touches: a more elaborate onion sofrito and a generosity with olive oil that is typically Basque.

The interesting thing about this dish is that it works equally well as an informal dinner or as a luxury tapa. In Portugal, it is served in generous portions as a main course; in the Basque Country, Arguiñano has adapted it as a pintxo or tapa in smaller portions.

Ingredients for gilded cod (4 people)

• 400 g desalted Icelandic cod, shredded into flakes
• 400 g potatoes, cut into fine straw (or store-bought straw potatoes as a shortcut)
• 6 eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 large onions, finely julienned
• 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 100 g black olives, pitted
• Plenty of extra virgin olive oil (for frying potatoes + sofrito)
• Fresh chopped parsley
• Salt and black pepper

Step-by-step preparation

Step 1: Prepare the cod

If using dry cod, desalt it in cold water for 48 hours in the refrigerator, changing the water every 8-10 hours. If you prefer to skip this step, at Bacalalo we offer pre-desalted cod ready to use.

Blanch the desalted cod in simmering water (not boiling) for 5-6 minutes. Drain it, let it cool, and shred it with your hands into fine flakes, carefully removing bones and skin. The flakes should be irregular but not too small — if you break them up too much, the dish loses texture.

Step 2: Fry the straw potatoes

Cut the potatoes into very thin julienne strips (2-3 mm), like matchsticks. If you have a mandoline, use it — consistency in cutting is important for even frying.

Heat plenty of olive oil in a large skillet to 180°C. Fry the potatoes in batches without overcrowding, for 2-3 minutes until golden and crispy. Drain them on absorbent paper. Arguiñano openly admits that he sometimes uses store-bought straw potatoes: "if they're good, there's no shame."

Step 3: The onion sofrito

In a large skillet (the largest you have), heat 4-5 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the finely julienned onion and sliced garlic. Sauté for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is completely transparent, sweet, and almost melted. This step is key: undercooked onion ruins the dish; caramelized onion elevates it.

Step 4: Incorporate the cod

Increase the heat slightly to medium. Add the shredded cod to the caramelized onion and mix carefully for 3-4 minutes. The cod should heat through and absorb the flavors of the sofrito without overcooking. If the cod breaks down too much at this stage, the dish loses the flaky texture that defines it.

Step 5: The potatoes and eggs

This is the most delicate step and the one that defines the success of the dish. Add the fried straw potatoes and mix with gentle, enveloping motions. The potatoes will begin to lose some of their crispiness upon contact with moisture — this is normal and desirable: the final texture should be half crispy, half soft.

Reduce the heat to minimum. Pour the beaten eggs over the cod and potato mixture. Stir constantly with broad, gentle movements, as if making scrambled eggs, for 2-3 minutes. The eggs should set slightly, enveloping the cod and potatoes in a creamy, glossy layer. The most common mistake is to overcook the eggs: they should remain juicy and creamy, never dry or set like an omelet.

Remove from heat when the eggs still look a little liquid — the residual heat will finish setting them. Add the black olives and chopped parsley.

Arguiñano's tricks for perfect gilded cod

• Caramelized onion, not fried: The onion needs 15-20 minutes over low heat. If you cook it in 5 minutes over high heat, it will be raw and pungent instead of sweet and silky.
• Eggs off the heat: The secret is to remove the pan from the heat before the eggs are completely set. The residual heat from the pan and potatoes will finish the job. Arguiñano says: "if the eggs look done in the pan, they will be overcooked on the plate."
• Flakes, not crumbs: The cod should be shredded into recognizable flakes, not pulverized. The texture of gilded cod relies on finding pieces of cod among the potatoes and egg.
• Black olives at the end: Add them after turning off the heat. If you cook them with the rest, they release a dark liquid that stains the entire dish black.
• Thin straw potatoes: The thinner the potatoes, the better the result. Thick potatoes do not absorb the egg correctly and remain like a foreign body in the dish.
• Generous olive oil: This dish needs plenty of oil at each stage. The unctuousness of the oil is what binds the flavors and gives shine to the final dish.

Presentation and accompaniments

Gilded cod is served immediately, freshly made, when the potatoes still retain some crispness and the eggs are creamy:

• Serve on a flat platter or in the same pan if presentable
• Garnish with whole black olives on top, artfully arranged
• Generous fresh chopped parsley
• A couple of parsley sprigs for decoration
• Serve with a green salad dressed with a lemon vinaigrette to cut through the richness

As a tapa or pintxo, serve small portions on crispy toast or in appetizer spoons. In Portugal, it is often served with white rice on the side, which might seem excessive but works surprisingly well.

Variations of gilded cod

• With piquillo peppers: Add 6-8 piquillo peppers cut into strips along with the onion. They add sweetness and a red color that contrasts with the yellow of the egg.
• With shrimp: Add 8 peeled shrimp sautéed on top as a luxury garnish. The cod-shrimp combination is a Portuguese classic.
• Gratin style: Place the gilded cod in an ovenproof dish and gratinate with grated cheese for 3 minutes under the grill. It's not the most orthodox version, but it's irresistible.
• Light version: Substitute fried potatoes with mashed cooked potatoes. Less crispy but lighter and without frying.

Frequently asked questions