Bacalhau com natas is one of the most iconic dishes in Portuguese cuisine: shredded cod gratinéed with cream, potatoes, and béchamel. Here, we explain the traditional recipe step-by-step, with tricks that make the difference between a good gratin and a memorable one. No shortcuts or watered-down versions.
What is Bacalhau com natas
Updated March 2026. In our more than 30 years of experience at Mercat del Ninot, this is what we recommend.
Bacalhau com natas (literally, "cod with cream") is a Portuguese gratin that combines shredded cod, thinly sliced fried potatoes, sautéed onions, and a generous amount of liquid cream (natas, in Portuguese). It's baked until the surface is golden and forms that crispy crust, which is the dish's signature.
In Portugal, it's one of the "thousand and one cod dishes" that are part of the national gastronomic identity. It's not haute cuisine: it's family food, Sunday food, unpretentious celebration food. And precisely for this reason, it is so successful: because it combines humble ingredients with a result that tastes luxurious.
Unlike other gratins, bacalhau com natas does not use classic béchamel. The sauce is formed by the reduced cream itself, which envelops the cod and potatoes, creating a creamy and unctuous texture. It's simpler than it seems, but requires attention to timing.
Origin and history in Portugal
Portugal consumes more cod per capita than any other country in the world: about 20 kg per person per year. This national obsession has roots dating back to the 15th century when Portuguese fishermen sailed to Newfoundland and Norway to catch cod, which was then salted aboard to preserve it during long return voyages.
Bacalhau com natas is a relatively modern recipe within the Portuguese canon. While bacalhau à Brás or bacalhau à Gomes de Sá have been documented for centuries, bacalhau com natas gained prominence in the second half of the 20th century, when liquid cream became widely available in Portuguese supermarkets.
Today, it is one of the most requested dishes in restaurants in Lisbon and Porto, and one of the first that young Portuguese people learn to cook. At Christmas, it competes with bacalhau cozido com todos (boiled cod with vegetables) as the star dish of Christmas Eve dinner.
Cod in Portuguese culture
The Portuguese claim to have 365 cod recipes, one for each day of the year. While the exact number is debatable, what is not: dried and salted cod (bacalhau) is the most prominent ingredient in Portuguese cuisine. Bacalhau com natas represents the most comforting aspect of this tradition: a dish that combines the saltiness of cod with the sweetness of cream.
Ingredients for 4 people
| Ingredient | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Desalted cod | 500 g | In thick fillets, already desalted |
| Potatoes | 600 g | Agria or Kennebec type (for frying) |
| Liquid cream for cooking | 400 ml | Minimum 35% fat content |
| Onion | 2 medium | Finely julienned |
| Garlic cloves | 3 | Sliced |
| Olive oil | 4 tablespoons | Extra virgin |
| Black pepper | To taste | Freshly ground |
| Nutmeg | 1 pinch | Grated (optional but recommended) |
| Fresh parsley | 1 handful | Finely chopped |
| Black olives | A handful | Portuguese (optional) |
Note on salt: DO NOT add salt. The desalted cod retains enough salinity for the entire dish. This is a common mistake that ruins the result.
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Step-by-step recipe
Step 1: Prepare the cod (10 minutes)
Place the desalted cod in a pot with cold water. Bring to a boil and, as soon as it boils, turn off the heat and cover. Let it rest for 10 minutes. Drain, remove skin and bones, and flake into generous pieces with your hands. Do not shred it too finely: we want to find pieces of cod in each bite.
Step 2: Fry the potatoes (15 minutes)
Peel the potatoes and cut them into thin slices (about 3 mm thick). Fry them in abundant hot olive oil until golden but not fully crispy: they will finish cooking in the oven. Drain them on absorbent paper.
Portuguese trick: In Portugal, potatoes are fried in olive oil, not sunflower oil. The flavor is different and marks the authenticity of the dish.
Step 3: Sauté the onion (10 minutes)
In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the julienned onion and sliced garlic. Sauté for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and soft. Do not let it brown.
Step 4: Combine the cream (5 minutes)
Add the liquid cream to the pan with the sautéed onion. Increase the heat slightly and let it simmer gently for 3-4 minutes. Add black pepper and nutmeg. Remove from heat.
Step 5: Assemble and bake (25-30 minutes)
Preheat the oven to 200 °C (390 °F) with top and bottom heat. In an oven-safe dish (preferably ceramic), layer the ingredients in this order:
- A layer of fried potatoes at the bottom
- A layer of shredded cod
- Another layer of potatoes
- Another layer of cod
- Pour the cream and onion mixture over the top, ensuring it penetrates between the layers
Bake for 20-25 minutes until the surface is golden and bubbly. If you want more gratin, turn on the grill for the last 3 minutes.
Step 6: Rest and serve
Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley and, if desired, some Portuguese black olives. Serve directly from the dish.
Tips for a perfect gratin
After more than 30 years working with cod, these are the details that separate a good bacalhau com natas from an exceptional one:
- Cream with fat: Use cream with a minimum of 35% fat content. "Light" creams separate in the oven, and the result is watery.
- Potato thickness: 3 mm is the sweet spot. Thinner slices break, thicker ones don't absorb the cream as well.
- Don't overcook the cod: It only needs to be poached for 10 minutes. If you boil it too much, it will be dry and fibrous even with all the cream.
- Shallow dish: The ratio between grated surface and content is key. A shallow, wide dish yields more golden crust.
- Flake, don't shred: The pieces should be at least 2-3 cm (about 1 inch). Cod is not a filling; it's the star.
- Mandatory rest: 5 minutes out of the oven allows the cream to thicken and the dish to settle. Serving immediately is a mistake.
Popular variations
With béchamel
Some Spanish versions substitute cream with a light béchamel. The result is denser and less faithful to the Portuguese original, but it has its followers. If you choose this route, make a fluid béchamel (more milk than usual) so it penetrates between the layers.
With spinach
A variation that has become popular in modern restaurants. A layer of sautéed spinach is added between the cod and potatoes. It adds color and an interesting vegetable counterpoint.
With red pepper
In the Portuguese Algarve, it's common to add strips of roasted red pepper. It's not the classic Lisbon version, but the sweetness of the pepper complements the saltiness of the cod very well.
Version without fried potato
For those who want a lighter version, the potato slices can be blanched instead of fried. The result loses texture but gains in lightness. It is not traditional, but it works.
Nutritional value
| Nutrient | Per serving (approx.) |
|---|---|
| Calories | 580 kcal |
| Protein | 35 g |
| Fats | 32 g |
| Carbohydrates | 38 g |
| Omega-3 | 0.8 g |
It's not a light dish, and it's not meant to be. It's pure Portuguese comfort food. Cod provides high-quality protein and omega-3, while cream and fried potatoes provide energy. It's a celebratory dish, not an everyday diet.
What cod to use for bacalhau com natas
This is where you will notice the most difference. The cod for this dish should be:
- Properly desalted: Neither too salty (ruins the dish) nor completely bland (loses character). Professional desalting for 48-72 hours is ideal.
- Thick loin: Thin pieces fall apart when flaked. You need loins at least 3 cm (about 1.2 inches) thick.
- Gadus morhua: The authentic North Atlantic cod. Alternatives like pollock or ling have a different texture and don't absorb cream the same way.
In Portugal, dried and salted cod is sold whole (bacalhau seco), and each family desalt it at home. In Spain, it's more practical to buy it already desalted from a trusted establishment that controls the salt level.
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Frequently asked questions
Can bacalhau com natas be made with frozen cod instead of salted?
Technically yes, but the result is not the same. Salted and desalted cod has a firmer texture and a more concentrated flavor than fresh frozen cod. Salting transforms the fish protein during curing, creating that characteristic flaky texture. With frozen cod, you will get a decent gratin but not an authentic one.
Can it be prepared the night before?
Yes, and it actually improves. Assemble all the layers in the dish, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. The next day, take it out 30 minutes before baking to bring it to room temperature and bake, adding 5 extra minutes to the cooking time. The potatoes absorb the cream overnight, and the result is juicier.
Can I substitute cream with evaporated milk?
We do not recommend it. Evaporated milk has less fat, and the gratin will not thicken as well. If you want a lighter version, use cooking cream with 18% fat but be aware that the result will be less creamy. 35% fat cream is what they use in Portugal and is what gives it that unctuous finish.
How long does it last in the fridge?
Well covered, 2-3 days in the fridge. Reheat in the oven at 180 °C (350 °F) for 15 minutes, covered with aluminum foil to prevent drying. In the microwave, it loses its crispy surface texture.
Can it be frozen?
It's not ideal. Fried potatoes lose texture when thawed, and the cream might curdle. If you need to prepare it in advance, it's better to assemble the layers without baking and freeze it that way. Thaw in the refrigerator 24 hours before and bake as if it were fresh.
What wine pairs best with bacalhau com natas?
A white vinho verde is the classic Portuguese choice: its acidity cuts through the richness of the cream. Other options: Alvarinho, Verdejo, or a Chablis. Avoid powerful red wines that mask the flavor of the cod.
What is the difference between bacalhau com natas and bacalhau à Zé do Pipo?
Bacalhau à Zé do Pipo uses mashed potatoes instead of fried potatoes, and it is au gratin with mayonnaise instead of cream. The result is denser and more compact. They are cousins in the family of Portuguese cod au gratins, but the texture and flavor are distinct.
Bacalhau com natas is proof that the best dishes are born from simple, well-prepared ingredients. Quality cod, cream with enough fat, well-fried potatoes, and an oven that does its job. No complications, no exotic ingredients, no need to be a chef to achieve an impressive result.
The key, as always, lies in the raw material. Well-desalted cod of the correct species (Gadus morhua) makes all the difference.
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Written by Marc González Sáez, seafood expert since 1990, Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona.
