Bacalhau com natas is one of the most emblematic dishes of Portuguese cuisine: shredded cod gratinéed with cream, potatoes, and béchamel sauce. Here we explain the traditional recipe step by step, with the tricks that make the difference between a correct gratin and a memorable one. No shortcuts or watered-down versions.
Contents
What is bacalhau com natas?
Bacalhau com natas (literally, "cod with cream") is a Portuguese gratin that combines shredded cod, thinly sliced fried potatoes, sautéed onions, and a generous amount of liquid cream (natas, in Portuguese). It is baked until the surface is golden and a crispy crust forms, which is the dish's signature.
In Portugal, it is one of the "thousand and one cod dishes" that are part of the national gastronomic identity. It is not a haute cuisine recipe: it is family food, for Sundays, for unpretentious celebrations. And precisely because of that, it is so successful: because it combines humble ingredients with a result that tastes luxurious.
Unlike other gratins, bacalhau com natas does not use classic béchamel. The sauce is formed from the reduced cream itself, which envelops the cod and potatoes, creating a creamy and unctuous texture. It is simpler than it seems but requires attention to timing.
Origin and history in Portugal
Portugal consumes more cod per capita than any other country in the world: about 20 kg per person per year. This national obsession has roots dating back to the 15th century when Portuguese fishermen sailed to Newfoundland and Norway to catch cod, which was then salted on board to preserve it during the long return journeys.
Bacalhau com natas is a relatively modern recipe within the Portuguese canon. While bacalhau à Brás or bacalhau à Gomes de Sá have been documented for centuries, bacalhau com natas emerged strongly in the second half of the 20th century, when liquid cream became widely available in Portuguese supermarkets.
Today, it is one of the most requested dishes in restaurants in Lisbon and Porto, and one of the first that young Portuguese learn to cook. At Christmas, it competes with bacalhau cozido com todos (boiled cod with vegetables) as the star dish of Christmas Eve dinner.
Cod in Portuguese culture
Portuguese people say they have 365 cod recipes, one for each day of the year. Although the exact number is debatable, what is not: dried and salted cod (bacalhau) is the most present ingredient in Portuguese cuisine. Bacalhau com natas represents the most comforting side of this tradition: a dish that combines the saltiness of cod with the sweetness of cream.
Ingredients for 4 people
| Ingredient | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Desalted cod | 500 g | In thick loins, already desalted |
| Potatoes | 600 g | Agria or Kennebec type (for frying) |
| Liquid cooking cream | 400 ml | Minimum 35% fat |
| Onion | 2 medium | Cut into fine julienne strips |
| Garlic cloves | 3 | Sliced |
| Olive oil | 4 tablespoons | Extra virgin |
| Black pepper | To taste | Freshly ground |
| Nutmeg | 1 pinch | Grated (optional but recommended) |
| Fresh parsley | 1 handful | Finely chopped |
| Black olives | A handful | Portuguese (optional) |
Note on salt: DO NOT add salt. Desalted cod retains enough saltiness for the entire dish. This is a common mistake that ruins the result.
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Step-by-step recipe
Step 1: Prepare the cod (10 minutes)
Place the desalted cod in a pot with cold water. Bring to a boil, and as soon as it boils, turn off the heat and cover. Let it rest for 10 minutes. Drain, remove skin and bones, and shred into generous pieces with your hands. Do not shred it too much: we want to find chunks of cod in every bite.
Step 2: Fry the potatoes (15 minutes)
Peel the potatoes and cut them into thin slices (about 3 mm thick). Fry them in abundant hot olive oil until golden but not completely crispy: they will finish cooking in the oven. Drain them on absorbent paper.
Portuguese trick: In Portugal, potatoes are fried in olive oil, not sunflower oil. The taste is different and marks the authenticity of the dish.
Step 3: Sauté the onion (10 minutes)
In a large pan, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the julienned onion and sliced garlic. Sauté for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is transparent and soft. Do not let it brown.
Step 4: Combine the cream (5 minutes)
Add the liquid cream to the pan with the sautéed onion. Increase the heat slightly and let it simmer gently for 3-4 minutes. Add black pepper and nutmeg. Remove from heat.
Step 5: Assemble and bake (25-30 minutes)
Preheat the oven to 200 °C with top and bottom heat. In an oven-safe dish (preferably earthenware), layer the ingredients in this order:
- A layer of fried potatoes at the bottom
- A layer of shredded cod
- Another layer of potatoes
- Another layer of cod
- Pour the cream and onion mixture over the top, ensuring it penetrates between the layers
Bake for 20-25 minutes until the surface is golden and bubbly. If you want more browning, activate the grill for the last 3 minutes.
Step 6: Rest and serve
Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley and, if desired, some Portuguese black olives. Serve directly from the dish.
Tips for a perfect gratin
After more than 30 years working with cod, these are the details that separate a correct bacalhau com natas from an exceptional one:
- Cream with fat: Use cream with a minimum of 35% fat. "Light" creams curdle in the oven, and the result is watery.
- Potato thickness: 3 mm is the sweet spot. Thinner slices break, thicker ones do not absorb the cream.
- Do not overcook the cod: It only needs to be poached for 10 minutes. If you boil it too much, it will be dry and fibrous even with all the cream.
- Shallow dish: The ratio between grated surface and content is key. A low, wide dish yields more golden crust.
- Shred, don't mince: The pieces should be at least 2-3 cm. Cod is not a filling; it is the star.
- Mandatory rest: 5 minutes out of the oven allows the cream to thicken and the dish to settle. Serving immediately is a mistake.
Popular variations
With béchamel
Some Spanish versions substitute the cream with a light béchamel. The result is denser and less true to the Portuguese original but has its adherents. If you choose this route, make a fluid béchamel (more milk than usual) so that it penetrates between the layers.
With spinach
A variation that has become popular in modern restaurants. A layer of sautéed spinach is added between the cod and potatoes. It adds color and an interesting vegetable counterpoint.
With red pepper
In the Portuguese Algarve, it is common to add strips of roasted red pepper. It is not the classic Lisbon version, but the sweetness of the pepper complements the saltiness of the cod very well.
Version without fried potatoes
For those who want a lighter version, the potato slices can be blanched instead of fried. The result loses texture but gains in lightness. It is not traditional but works.
Nutritional value
| Nutrient | Per serving (approx.) |
|---|---|
| Calories | 580 kcal |
| Protein | 35 g |
| Fat | 32 g |
| Carbohydrates | 38 g |
| Omega-3 | 0.8 g |
It is not a light dish, and it is not meant to be. It is pure Portuguese comfort food. Cod provides high-quality protein and omega-3, while cream and fried potatoes provide energy. It is a celebration dish, not for daily dieting.
What cod to use for bacalhau com natas
This is where you will notice the biggest difference. The cod for this dish should be:
- Perfectly desalted: Neither too salty (ruins the dish) nor completely bland (loses character). Professional desalting for 48-72 hours is ideal.
- Thick loin: Thin pieces fall apart when shredded. You need loins at least 3 cm thick.
- Gadus morhua: The authentic North Atlantic cod. Alternatives like pollock or ling have a different texture and do not absorb the cream the same way.
In Portugal, dried and salted cod is sold whole (bacalhau seco), and each family desalt it at home. In Spain, it is more practical to buy it already desalted from a trusted establishment that controls the salt level.
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Frequently asked questions
Can bacalhau com natas be made with frozen cod instead of salted?
Technically yes, but the result is not the same. Salted and desalted cod has a firmer texture and a more concentrated flavor than fresh frozen cod. The salt transforms the fish protein during curing, creating that characteristic texture that shreds into flakes. With frozen cod, you will get a correct but not authentic gratin.
Can it be prepared the night before?
Yes, and it actually improves. Assemble all the layers in the dish, cover with film, and refrigerate. The next day, take it out 30 minutes before baking to bring it to room temperature and bake, adding 5 extra minutes to the cooking time. The potatoes absorb the cream overnight, and the result is juicier.
Can I substitute evaporated milk for cream?
We do not recommend it. Evaporated milk has less fat, and the gratin will not thicken as well. If you want a lighter version, use cooking cream at 18% but accept that the result will be less creamy. 35% cream is what they use in Portugal and is what gives that unctuous finish.
How long does it last in the fridge?
Well covered, 2-3 days in the fridge. Reheat in the oven at 180 °C for 15 minutes, covered with aluminum foil to prevent it from drying out. In the microwave, it loses the crispy texture of the surface.
Can it be frozen?
It is not ideal. Fried potatoes lose texture when thawed, and the cream can curdle. If you need to prepare it in advance, it is better to assemble the layers without baking and freeze it that way. Thaw in the fridge 24 hours before and bake as if it were fresh.
What wine pairs best with bacalhau com natas?
A white vinho verde is the classic Portuguese choice: its acidity cuts through the richness of the cream. Other options: Alvarinho, Verdejo, or a Chablis. Avoid powerful red wines that mask the flavor of the cod.
What is the difference between bacalhau com natas and bacalhau à Zé do Pipo?
Bacalhau à Zé do Pipo uses mashed potatoes instead of fried potatoes and is gratinéed with mayonnaise instead of cream. The result is denser and more compact. They are cousins in the family of Portuguese cod gratins, but the texture and flavor are different.
Bacalhau com natas is proof that the best dishes are born from simple ingredients treated well. Quality cod, cream with enough fat, well-fried potatoes, and an oven that does its job. Without complications, without exotic ingredients, without needing to be a chef to achieve an impressive result.
The key, as always, lies in the raw material. Well-desalted cod of the correct species (Gadus morhua) makes all the difference.
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Written by Marc González Sáez, seafood expert since 1990, Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona.
