Bacalao a la Bilbaína is one of the great dishes of Basque cuisine: desalted cod cooked slowly with choricero peppers, garlic, and olive oil. We explain the step-by-step recipe, the difference from "a la Vizcaína," common mistakes, and how to achieve that velvety red sauce that defines the dish.
What is Bacalao a la Bilbaína
Updated March 2026. In our over 30 years of experience at Mercat del Ninot, this is what we recommend.
Bacalao a la Bilbaína is a Basque stew in which desalted cod is cooked with a sauce of choricero peppers, sliced garlic, and olive oil. The result is a hearty dish with an intense red color and deep flavor, where the choricero pepper provides sweetness and body without being spicy.
It is traditionally a winter dish, although it is eaten all year round in the Basque Country. In Bilbao, it is part of the culinary canon along with Tolosa beans, hake in green sauce, and marmitako.
What distinguishes Bacalao a la Bilbaína from other preparations is the technique: the cod is not fried; it is gently confited in oil while the pepper sauce is prepared separately. Then they are combined and allowed to integrate over low heat. The cod absorbs the sauce and the sauce takes on flavor from the cod. Perfect symbiosis.
Bilbaína vs. Vizcaína: The difference everyone confuses
This is the question that generates the most confusion in Basque cuisine. They are different dishes, although many recipes mix them without distinction.
| Aspect | Bacalao a la Bilbaína | Bacalao a la Vizcaína |
|---|---|---|
| Base pepper | Choricero pepper (dried) | Choricero pepper + onion (lots) |
| Onion | Little to none | Protagonist, slowly sautéed |
| Garlic | Sliced, visible | Sautéed with onion, integrated |
| Sauce | Light, red, with pieces | Thick, dark, pureed |
| Technique | Confit + separate sauce | All together, long cooking |
| Texture | Firm cod, clear sauce | Soft cod, dense sauce |
| Time | 30-40 minutes | 1-2 hours |
In summary: Bilbaína is more direct, with less onion and more prominence of garlic and choricero pepper. Vizcaína is more laborious, with a dense sauce based on onions slow-cooked for hours. Both are magnificent, but they are distinct dishes.
History: Cod in Bilbao
Bilbao and cod have a relationship that dates back to the 15th century. Basque fishermen traveled to Newfoundland to fish for cod, which they salted on board and transported back to the Cantabrian ports. Bilbao, as a main commercial port, became a distribution center for salted cod for the entire Peninsula.
Bilbaína was born as a dish of gastronomic societies. Basque gastronomic societies (txokos) were laboratories where recipes were perfected over generations. Bacalao a la Bilbaína is a product of this process: simple in concept, but refined in technique through repetition and collective debate.
Choricero peppers, cultivated in the Basque Country and Navarre, arrived in Basque cuisine in the 17th century after the introduction of peppers from America. Their integration with cod was natural: the sweetness of the pepper balances the residual saltiness of the desalted cod.
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Step-by-step recipe
Ingredients (4 servings)
- 4 desalted cod loins (about 200g each)
- 6-8 dried choricero peppers
- 6 cloves of garlic
- 200 ml extra virgin olive oil
- 1 dried chili pepper (optional)
- Flour for dusting (optional)
- Fresh chopped parsley
Step 1: Prepare the choricero peppers
Soak the choricero peppers in hot water for 30 minutes. Once hydrated, open them, remove the seeds, and scrape the pulp from the inside with a spoon or knife. Reserve the pulp and the soaking water.
This pulp is the soul of Bilbaína. It is sweet, slightly smoky, and has an intense red color that dyes the entire sauce.
Step 2: Confit the garlic
In a clay pot or large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the sliced garlic (not chopped, finely sliced) and cook very slowly until golden but not burned. If you want it spicy, add the dried chili pepper.
Important: burnt garlic ruins the sauce. Low heat and patience. It should turn a uniform golden color, not brown.
Step 3: Add the choricero pepper
Remove the garlic from the oil and set aside. Lower the heat to a minimum and add the choricero pepper pulp to the hot oil. Stir for 2-3 minutes to integrate it with the oil. Add a little of the pepper soaking water (2-3 tablespoons) to create a light sauce.
Return the garlic to the sauce. Mix well.
Step 4: Cook the cod
Dry the cod loins with kitchen paper. If you wish, lightly dust the skin side with flour (not the flesh). Place the loins in the sauce with the skin facing up. Cook over low heat for 10-12 minutes.
During this time, move the pot in circular motions (do not use a spoon to flip it). This movement releases the gelatin from the cod and emulsifies the sauce, giving it body and shine.
Step 5: Emulsify and serve
When the cod is cooked (the flesh flakes easily when gently pressed), remove it from the heat. The sauce should have a silky texture, neither liquid nor thick. If it's too liquid, turn up the heat for a moment. If it's too thick, add a tablespoon of hot water.
Sprinkle with fresh chopped parsley and serve directly in the pot.
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Professional tips for a perfect sauce
The cod's gelatin is your ally. Cod has collagen in its skin and between its muscle fibers. Over low heat, this collagen dissolves and emulsifies the sauce. That's why the pot is moved in circles: to integrate that gelatin with the oil and create a naturally silky sauce, without adding anything.
Never boil the sauce. If the sauce boils, the emulsion will break and it will become oily. Always use low heat. The sauce should "tremble," not bubble.
Do not flip the cod. It cooks on one side only. The heat rises through the sauce and cooks the top part by steam. If you flip it, it will break.
A clay pot makes a difference. Ceramic distributes heat evenly and maintains a stable temperature. If you use a metal pan, lower the heat even further.
What cod to use
For Bilbaína, you need cod loins 3-4 cm thick, preferably from the center of the loin. This area has the most compact fibers and the perfect proportion of flesh and gelatin.
- Ideal: central loin, desalted, with skin. 200-250g per person.
- Alternative: cod neck. It has more gelatin and is juicier, but is more irregular in size.
- Avoid: cod tail (falls apart) or flakes (lack structure).
If you desalinate it yourself, remember: 48 hours in the refrigerator, at least 3 water changes. The cod for Bilbaína should be well desalted but not bland. A hint of residual salt is correct.
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Accompaniments and wine pairing
Classic accompaniments
- Country bread: for dipping in the sauce. Non-negotiable.
- Boiled potatoes: sliced thickly, served on the side.
- Piquillo peppers: roasted, as a garnish. Total affinity with the sauce.
Wine pairing
- Txakoli: the acidity and natural bubbles cut through the fat of the sauce.
- Rioja white crianza: the soft oak pairs well with the choricero pepper.
- Young Ribera del Duero: if you prefer red, a young Tempranillo with fruit works.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use paprika instead of choricero peppers?
It's not the same. Paprika provides color and some flavor, but lacks the meaty texture and deep sweetness of choricero pepper. If you can't find choriceros, use dried ñora peppers as the closest alternative.
Can Bilbaína be made with fresh cod?
Technically yes, but the result is different. Salted and desalted cod has a firmer, more compact texture, and releases gelatin that emulsifies the sauce. Fresh cod falls apart more easily and the sauce is less silky.
How long does it take to make Bacalao a la Bilbaína?
About 40-50 minutes in total: 30 minutes of soaking peppers (can be done while preparing other ingredients), 10 minutes for the sauce, and 10-12 minutes for cooking the cod. Plus 24-48 hours of prior desalting.
Why does my sauce come out oily and not emulsified?
The heat was probably too high. The emulsion is achieved at a low temperature, moving the pot in circles. If the sauce has split, remove the cod, add a tablespoon of hot water, and whisk vigorously until it thickens.
Can Bacalao a la Bilbaína be reheated?
Yes, over very low heat. Reheat it uncovered, moving the pot in circles. Avoid the microwave: it dries out the cod and breaks the sauce's emulsion.
What is the difference between Bilbaína and pil-pil?
Pil-pil uses only oil, garlic, and chili pepper (without choricero pepper). The sauce is formed solely by the cod's gelatin emulsified in the oil. Bilbaína adds choricero pepper, which gives it additional color and flavor.
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Conclusions
Bacalao a la Bilbaína is pure Basque cuisine: few ingredients, precise technique, and spectacular results. It needs no complications or embellishments. It needs good cod, good choricero peppers, generous olive oil, and low heat.
If you've been confusing it with Vizcaína, now you know the difference. And if you've never made it, this recipe works first time. The only secret is patience: low heat, no rush, moving the pot like your grandparent taught you (or as we are teaching you here).
Marc González Sáez has been working with cod since 1990 at Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona. At Bacalalo.com we select cod loins with the perfect structure and gelatin for traditional cooking recipes.
