Puttanesca is the unapologetically flavorful Italian pasta: tomato, black olives, capers, garlic, chili, and, above all, anchovies that melt into the oil and give depth to the entire sauce. Intense, salty, and aromatic, it's made in the time it takes to cook the pasta and contains no cheese. A pantry dish that demonstrates the power of anchovies as a flavor enhancer.
Puttanesca was born in the poorer neighborhoods of Naples as a "what's in the pantry" pasta: anchovies, olives, capers, tomato, and garlic. Humble ingredients that, together, create a sauce with an almost aggressive flavor intensity. The secret lies in the anchovies: they are not eaten as visible pieces, but rather dissolve in hot oil until they disappear, becoming an invisible umami base that permeates the entire sauce. Without anchovies, puttanesca is a marinara with extras. With anchovies, it's a flavor bomb unlike anything else.
Ingredients
- 400g spaghetti (or rigatoni) (we use Cantabrian Anchovies "0" Gourmet Selection)
- 8 Cantabrian anchovy fillets in EVOO
- 400g crushed tomatoes (San Marzano if possible)
- 80g pitted black olives (Gaeta or Kalamata)
- 2 tablespoons capers (rinsed if brine-packed)
- 4 cloves garlic, sliced
- 1 dried chili, chopped
- Plenty of extra virgin olive oil
- Fresh parsley, chopped
Step-by-step preparation
- Bring water to a boil with generous salt for the pasta. Cook the spaghetti al dente according to package instructions minus 1 minute (it will finish cooking in the sauce). Reserve one cup of the cooking water before draining.
- Dissolve anchovies: 2 minutes In a large skillet, heat a generous amount of oil over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and chili. When the garlic begins to brown (30 seconds), add the anchovy fillets. Stir with a wooden spoon, pressing the anchovies against the bottom of the pan. In 1-2 minutes, they should completely break down, melt into the oil, and disappear. If visible pieces remain, the anchovy will be just another ingredient instead of the soul of the sauce.
- Add the crushed tomatoes, halved olives, and capers. Increase the heat slightly and cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and darkens. The tomato should reduce and concentrate, not remain watery.
- Combine pasta and sauce: 1-2 minutes Add the drained pasta directly to the skillet with the sauce. Mix over medium heat for 1-2 minutes, adding the reserved cooking water by the tablespoon if the sauce is too thick. The starch from the pasta water helps the sauce cling to each strand of spaghetti.
- Remove from heat. Add a final drizzle of raw extra virgin olive oil and fresh parsley. Do not add cheese: in Italy, cheese on fish pasta is a sacrilege that we respect here. Puttanesca is eaten without Parmesan.
The house trick
Use 50g anchovies in EVOO (the small ones) for cooking, not the "00" premium ones. Premium anchovies are for eating whole; for dissolving in oil, cooking anchovies work just as well and cost a fraction. It's like using Ibérico acorn-fed ham to make croquettes: it doesn't make sense when cebo ham gives the same cooked result.
Buy it at BacalaloCantabrian Anchovies "0" Gourmet Selection€38.90 · 24-48h refrigerated shipping →Discover our entire collection of Cantabrian Anchovies →
Frequently Asked Questions
Does puttanesca contain cheese?
No. Traditionally, it is served without cheese; the anchovy, olives, and capers already provide all the salty intensity.
Can you taste the anchovy?It provides a deep umami base rather than an identifiable fish flavor. It's what gives the sauce its character.
What pasta should I use?Spaghetti or linguine are classic, but any long pasta that holds the sauce well will work.
