Best Gildas in Spain 2026 (summary): To eat at a bar — Bar Martínez (San Sebastián), where the gilda was born in 1946. To buy artisanal online ready-made — Gildas Bacalalo (8 variations with real Cantabrian anchovy, Ibarra piparra pepper, manzanilla olive). To make at home — size 0 anchovy, Ibarra piparra pepper PGI, and small manzanilla olive. We tested 14 options in Donosti and 10 commercial brands in April 2026.
The gilda isn't a complicated recipe — anchovy, piparra pepper, and olive skewered on a toothpick — but few things separate good from mediocre products as much as this. A poorly made gilda is sad; a well-made one is the best way to start a meal in Spain. This article is an honest guide to finding them.
The origin of the gilda: Bar Martínez, San Sebastián, 1946
The gilda was born at Casa Vallés / Bar Martínez on 31 de Agosto Street in San Sebastián, around 1946. A regular customer, after seeing the movie "Gilda" with Rita Hayworth, said of a pintxo made with anchovy, piparra pepper, and olive: "it's like Gilda — green, salty, and spicy." The name stuck.
The original canonical recipe is:
- 1 Cantabrian anchovy in oil (not boquerón in vinegar)
- 2-3 Basque piparra peppers (Ibarra chili pepper, PGI)
- 1-2 pitted manzanilla olives
- Extra virgin olive oil to drizzle
- Wooden toothpick (not metal)
Any gilda that strays far from this is creative interpretation, not canon.
Methodology
We tested 14 bars in Donostia and 10 commercial brands (in jars, ready to serve) during April 2026. Criteria:
- Anchovy quality (35%): Cantabrian, size 0, minimum 8 months curing.
- Piparra pepper (25%): Ibarra piparra pepper PGI, not industrial chili pepper.
- Olive (15%): small manzanilla, not overly pasteurized.
- Oil (10%): quality EVOO, not vegetable oil.
- Balance (10%): correct proportions, harmonious flavor.
- Availability/Price (5%): €1.5-3.5 per unit at a bar; €12-25/jar online.
Best bars for gilda in Donostia (top 6)
- Bar Martínez (Calle 31 de Agosto, 13) — 9.5/10: the birthplace of the gilda. They preserve the original recipe almost unchanged. Size 0 Cantabrian anchovy, Ibarra piparra pepper, manzanilla olive. If you go to Donostia and only have time for one gilda, this is it.
- Casa Vallés (Reyes Católicos, 10) — 9.4/10: the other historic place that claims paternity. Excellent. The difference with Martínez is marginal and depends on the year.
- Borda Berri (Fermín Calbetón, 12) — 9.2/10: in the Old Town. More modern gilda in presentation but with excellent product.
- La Cuchara de San Telmo (Mayor, 7) — 9.0/10: a reference in the Old Town. Unpretentious gilda, top product.
- Ganbara (San Jerónimo, 21) — 8.9/10: famous for its mushrooms, but the gilda is one of the most balanced.
- Bar Néstor (Pescadería, 11) — 8.8/10: known for its chuleta and tortilla, but the gilda does not disappoint.
Mention: in Bilbao, El Globo and La Viña del Ensanche make very good gildas. In Vitoria, El Toloño. Donostia has the highest concentration but not a monopoly.
Best commercial gilda brands in jar format (online and in store)
- Artisanal Gildas Bacalalo — 9.3/10: handmade with Cantabrian anchovy, Ibarra piparra pepper, and manzanilla olive. Eight variations including classic Basque, Donostiarra with boquerón, cheese, Galician octopus, "matrimonio." Price: €14-22/jar of 8 units.
- A92 Gilda Jar (2kg family size) — 9.0/10: large format for hospitality or events. A92 gilda jar with Cantabrian anchovy, ideal for gatherings.
- Don Bocarte Premium Gildas — 8.8/10: very high quality, premium price (€28-35/jar).
- Conservas Olasagasti Gildas — 8.5/10: classic Basque brand, solid product.
- Casa Riera Ordeix Gildas (mixed) — 8.3/10: a decent mid-range option.
- El Capricho Gildas (Cantabrian artisanal) — 8.0/10: a worthy product, though smaller in size.
- El Corte Inglés Selección Gildas — 7.8/10: acceptable, but not outstanding.
- Private label brands (Carrefour, Mercadona) — 6.5/10: industrial product. If you consume them, better than nothing, but the difference with artisanal is huge.
Bacalalo's artisanal gildas
We sell 8 variations of handmade artisanal gildas. This isn't a marketing whim: for years Marc didn't sell gildas because industrial ones are disappointing. We found a family supplier who makes them one by one, and they are the closest thing to a Donostia bar gilda you'll eat at home.
- Classic Basque Gilda — Cantabrian anchovy, olive, and piparra pepper. The canonical one.
- Anchovy Gilda with sun-dried tomato — a handmade variation.
- Boquerón Gilda — for those who prefer boquerón in vinegar to salted anchovy.
- "Matrimonio" Gilda — anchovy + boquerón in the same pintxo.
- Galician Octopus Gilda — a variation with octopus and paprika.
- Cheese Gilda — for those who don't want fish.
- Cheese and Cecina Gilda — Iberian variation.
- Donostiarra Mariposa Boquerón Gilda — the classic from the Old Town.
To try several: the Artisanal Gilda Tasting Pack with 4 variations, or the Donostiarra Vermouth Pack with boquerón and matrimonio.
Try Bacalalo artisanal gildas
8 handmade variations. Cantabrian anchovy + Ibarra piparra pepper.
View gilda collectionHow to make the perfect gilda at home
If you want to assemble them yourself, the right ingredients are half the battle:
- Anchovy: firm size 0. Size 00 is wasted under vinegar and chili pepper; size 1 can break when skewered. Our "0" Gourmet Selection anchovy is perfect for gilda.
- Piparra pepper: Ibarra piparra pepper PGI, drained from vinegar. Industrial chili pepper is spicier but has less vegetal aroma.
- Olive: small pitted manzanilla, not the large stuffed one. The large Sevillian olive is too dominant.
- Toothpick: wooden (not metal — metal reacts slightly with anchovy, just like with caviar).
- Oil: an optional drop of EVOO on top when serving.
- Skewering order: olive at the bottom, piparra wrapped around, anchovy on top. Not the other way around (the weight of the olive provides support).
- Drink: white vermouth with soda, txakoli, or a cold beer. No red wine.
Comparative summary table
| Category | Top option | Price | Score |
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional bar | Bar Martínez (Donostia) | €2.50/ea | 9.5 |
| Modern bar | Borda Berri | €3.00/ea | 9.2 |
| Artisanal online | Bacalalo (8 variants) | €14-22/jar | 9.3 |
| Premium online | Don Bocarte Gildas | €28-35/jar | 8.8 |
| For event/catering | A92 Jar (2kg) | ~€85/2kg | 9.0 |
| To make at home | Anchovy 0 + Ibarra Piparra + Manzanilla | ~€0.80/ea | 9.0+ |
| Private label | Carrefour/Mercadona | €3-5/jar | 6.5 |
Where to buy the best gildas depending on the occasion
- For an authentic experience: go to Donostia and explore the Old Town (Bar Martínez, Casa Vallés, La Cuchara de San Telmo, Borda Berri).
- For a gourmet gift: Bacalalo artisanal gilda Tasting Pack (4 variations in pretty jars).
- For a dinner at home with friends: 2-3 artisanal jars (Classic + Boquerón + Octopus is a good combination).
- For an event, catering, or restaurant: A92 2kg family-sized jar.
- For a casual vermouth: make the gildas yourself with "0" anchovy, Ibarra piparra pepper, and manzanilla olives. Fresher and cheaper if you have the product.
- For zero budget: better not to eat gilda. A mediocre gilda is more discouraging than helpful.
Bacalalo's 8 artisanal gildas
Handmade. Cantabrian anchovy + real Ibarra piparra pepper.
View collectionDiscover our premium selection
Seafood products carefully selected since 1990 at Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona. Chilled delivery in 24-48h.
Conclusion: the best gilda has the right ingredients
"Best gilda" is not a mystery. It's real Cantabrian anchovy, real Ibarra piparra pepper, manzanilla olive, and a wooden toothpick. Any gilda with these four correct ingredients is a good gilda. The problem is that 70% of the gildas sold for under €8/jar have cheap industrial anchovy, generic chili pepper, and large generic olives. They don't work.
If you go to Donostia, go to Bar Martínez. If you buy artisanal online, ours or Don Bocarte's. If you make them at home, pay €5 more for the correct ingredients: the difference is huge, and the gilda is the simplest thing in the world if the ingredients are right.
Related resources: ranking of 12 anchovy brands from Santoña, anchovy size guide, best anchovies in the world.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called "gilda"?
After the movie "Gilda" (1946) starring Rita Hayworth. A customer at Bar Martínez in San Sebastián saw the pintxo of anchovy, piparra pepper, and olive and said, "it's like Gilda — green, salty, and spicy." The name stuck ever since.
Anchovy or boquerón in a gilda?
The canonical gilda uses salted Cantabrian anchovy in oil. The variation with boquerón in vinegar is the "Donostiarra mariposa boquerón gilda," also authentic but different. The "matrimonio gilda" uses both in the same pintxo. All are legitimate.
What size anchovy for gilda?
Firm size 0. Size 00 (premium) is wasted under the vinegar and piparra pepper; size 1 can break when skewered. Size 0 is the sweet spot for the anchovy to hold on the toothpick and provide presence.
What is an Ibarra piparra pepper PGI?
Piparra (Basque chili pepper) grown in Ibarra, Gipuzkoa, with Protected Geographical Indication. It is small to medium-sized, has a characteristic vegetal aroma, and mild to medium spiciness. The difference from industrial chili pepper: fresher aroma and more balanced, less abrasive spiciness.
How many gildas per person for an appetizer?
2-3 gildas per person as an appetizer. If it's for vermouth, 3-4 with other pintxos. Gildas are potent: more than 4 will saturate the palate and hinder the main meal.
Do commercial jarred gildas taste the same as those from a bar?
Quality artisanal ones come very close (90% of the experience). Industrial ones don't reach 60%. The difference with a gilda from a bar is the freshness of the oil and the temperature: in a bar, they are served freshly dressed, in a jar, they are balanced for weeks. Even so, a good artisanal gilda at home is far superior to a mediocre one in a bar outside Donostia.
How long do opened jarred gildas last?
3-5 days in the fridge after opening, submerged in their oil. If the anchovy starts to smell ammonia-like or the oil becomes cloudy, discard them. An unopened jar lasts 12-18 months depending on the manufacturer.
What drink pairs with gildas?
White vermouth with soda, txakoli (young Basque wine), cold light beer, natural Basque cider. Red wine and sweet wine do not go with salty anchovy. If you insist on wine, an Albariño or a Verdejo.
Are gildas suitable for celiacs?
Generally, yes, as none of the ingredients naturally contain gluten. But check the brand: some may have traces due to processing in a shared facility. Bacalalo gildas and most artisanal ones are declared gluten-free.
What is the best non-classic gilda to try?
The Galician octopus gilda is the most interesting variant: it replaces the anchovy with octopus and adds a smoky paprika touch. The "matrimonio" gilda (anchovy + boquerón) is also excellent and very much from Donostia. The cheese and cecina gilda is good for those who don't want fish but want something salty and spicy. Avoid gildas with nuts or strange ingredients: they are not canonical.
About the author
Lalo González Rodríguez — Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona. Adopted Donostiarra for two decades. We conduct open tastings and publish without sponsorships. If you have a gilda you think deserves to be on this ranking, please contact us.
