Cod Salad: Recipe for the Best Tapas with Cod

What is codfish "ensaladilla" and why does it work so well?

Russian salad is, along with Spanish omelet, Spain's most universal tapa. It is served in practically all bars across the country, from beach shacks to Michelin-starred restaurants. The classic version contains canned tuna, but when you substitute tuna with desalted cod, something special happens: the "ensaladilla" elevates to a new level.

Cod brings something to the "ensaladilla" that canned tuna cannot: fibrous texture, a more subtle and elegant flavor, and an absorption capacity that makes each bite perfectly integrated with the mayonnaise and vegetables. While canned tuna can be compact and somewhat dry, flaked cod melts into the mixture, creating a creamier and more harmonious "ensaladilla".

In the culinary tradition of northern Spain — Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias — codfish "ensaladilla" is as common as the tuna version. In the pintxo bars of San Sebastián and Bilbao, it is common to find "ensaladillas" with confit cod, smoked cod, or even cod brandade as a base. In Catalonia, ensaladilla de bacallà is a classic at Barceloneta's beach bars.

At Bacalalo, our shop in the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona since 1990, we consider codfish "ensaladilla" to be one of the best ways to discover the taste of Icelandic cod for those who have not tried it before. It is a familiar, recognizable, and risk-free dish: everyone knows and loves Russian salad, and when trying it with quality cod, the surprise is always positive.

Ingredients for codfish "ensaladilla"

For 6-8 people (as a generous tapa)

• 400 g of desalted cod (equivalent to about 250 g of dried cod)
• 500 g of potatoes (floury variety, such as Kennebec or Monalisa)
• 2 medium carrots
• 150 g of peas (frozen or fresh seasonal)
• 100 g of fine green beans (optional but recommended)
• 2 hard-boiled eggs
• 8-10 green olives stuffed with anchovies
• 4-5 pickled gherkins
• 1 small can of bell peppers (or 2 roasted piquillo peppers)

For the homemade mayonnaise

• 1 whole egg (at room temperature)
• 250 ml of sunflower oil (or a mixture of sunflower + mild olive oil)
• 1 tablespoon of lemon juice (or white wine vinegar)
• 1 pinch of salt
• 1 small garlic clove (optional, for aioli version)

Notes on ingredients

The cod: Use quality Icelandic cod (Gadus morhua). For "ensaladilla", flaked or shredded cod is the most practical format. If you use loins, you will need to flake them by hand after cooking. The cod must be properly desalted — lightly salty, not bland — as it will be the main source of salinity in the "ensaladilla".

The potatoes: The most important ingredient after cod. They should be a floury variety, which break down slightly when cut and absorb mayonnaise well. Waxy potatoes (like Charlotte) hold their shape but create a less creamy "ensaladilla". Cut them into 1-1.5 cm cubes for the ideal size.

The vegetables: Carrots add sweetness and color. Peas add texture and green specks. Green beans are optional but add a subtle crunch that contrasts with the overall creaminess. All vegetables should be cooked al dente: tender but with a hint of firmness. Overcooked vegetables make for a soft and bland "ensaladilla".

The pickles: Stuffed olives and gherkins are not just decoration — they are a fundamental part of the flavor. Their acidity and saltiness break through the creaminess of the mayonnaise and create a balance of flavors in each bite. Do not omit them.

How to prepare cod for "ensaladilla"

The way you prepare the cod largely determines the final texture of the "ensaladilla". There are two main methods:

Method 1: Poached cod (classic)

1. Once the cod is desalted (24-36 hours in the refrigerator with water changes), place it in a pot with cold water to cover.
2. Add 1 bay leaf, a few black peppercorns, and half a leek (optional, for flavoring).
3. Bring the water to medium heat until it begins to shimmer (about 70-80°C). Do not let it boil: boiling breaks down the cod fibers and leaves it dry and tough.
4. Keep the heat at minimum for 8-10 minutes for loins, or 5-6 minutes for flakes.
5. Remove from water and let cool. Flake by hand into irregular fibers, removing any bones or skin you find.

Method 2: Confit cod (gourmet)

1. Place the desalted and dry cod in a skillet or shallow pot.
2. Cover with extra virgin olive oil.
3. Heat over very low heat until the oil reaches 60-65°C. The cod should cook slowly in the oil for 15-20 minutes, without the oil bubbling.
4. Remove and flake. Confit cod is juicier, more unctuous, and adds extra richness to the "ensaladilla".
5. Reserve the confit oil: you can use it for the mayonnaise (mixed with sunflower oil) or to dress the "ensaladilla" at the end.

The confit method produces a restaurant-level "ensaladilla", but poaching is perfectly valid and more practical for everyday use. In both cases, the important thing is not to overcook the cod: it should be tender and juicy, not dry and fibrous.

Step-by-step recipe

Step 1: Cook the vegetables (30 minutes)

It is essential to cook each vegetable separately or in staggered times, because each needs a different amount of time:

1. Potatoes: Place them whole (with skin) in a pot with cold salted water. Bring to a boil and cook for 20-25 minutes until a knife penetrates easily but they do not fall apart. Drain and let cool before peeling and cutting into 1-1.5 cm cubes.
2. Carrots: Peel them and cook them whole in salted water for 12-15 minutes. They should be al dente, not soft. Drain, cool, and cut into small cubes (0.5 cm).
3. Peas: If frozen, cook them in boiling salted water for 3-4 minutes. If fresh, 5-7 minutes. Drain and immediately cool in ice water to set their bright green color.
4. Green beans: Remove the ends and cook them in salted water for 5-6 minutes. Al dente: green and with a subtle crunch. Cool in ice water and cut into 1 cm pieces.
5. Eggs: Cook them for 10 minutes in boiling water for perfect hard-boiled eggs. Immediately cool in ice water (this prevents the green ring around the yolk). Peel and chop into irregular pieces.

Important tip: Cooking potatoes with their skin prevents them from absorbing excess water, which would then dilute the mayonnaise. Peel them once they are cool — the skin comes off easily.

Step 2: Prepare the cod

While the vegetables are cooking, prepare the cod according to your preferred method (poached or confit). Flake it into medium fibers and set aside.

Step 3: Cut the pickles

Chop the stuffed olives into slices or quarters. Cut the gherkins into small cubes. Cut the bell peppers or piquillo peppers into thin strips or cubes.

Reserve some whole olives, hard-boiled egg slices, and pepper strips for garnish.

Step 4: Prepare the homemade mayonnaise

Homemade mayonnaise is non-negotiable for a good "ensaladilla". The difference with commercial mayonnaise is abysmal: freshness, creaminess, flavor. If you use jarred mayonnaise, your "ensaladilla" will have a quality ceiling that you cannot overcome. Dedicate 2 minutes to it — it's the easiest part of the recipe.

(We detail the complete recipe in the next section.)

Step 5: Mix the "ensaladilla"

This is the step where most "ensaladillas" go wrong. The mixing technique is as important as the ingredients:

1. In a large bowl, place the diced potatoes. They should be at room temperature or slightly warm (not hot or cold from the fridge). Warm potatoes absorb mayonnaise better.
2. Add the carrots, peas, green beans, chopped olives, gherkins, and peppers.
3. Incorporate the flaked cod. Distribute it well so that each bite has cod.
4. Add the chopped eggs.
5. Pour in the homemade mayonnaise. Start with two-thirds of the total amount and mix gently, using a large spatula or two spoons.
6. Mix with folding movements, not aggressive stirring. The goal is for the mayonnaise to coat each ingredient without crushing the potatoes or breaking down the cod. Rough mixing produces a pasty "ensaladilla" where the ingredients are indistinguishable.
7. Evaluate the consistency. If the "ensaladilla" seems dry, add more mayonnaise. It should be creamy and unctuous, but not soaked. Keep in mind that the "ensaladilla" will absorb more mayonnaise during refrigeration.

Step 6: Chill in the refrigerator (minimum 2 hours)

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, ideally 4-6 hours or overnight. Chilling is essential:

• Flavors integrate and mature.
• Potatoes absorb mayonnaise, creating a more compact texture.
• Cod releases its natural gelatin, which acts as a binder.
• The "ensaladilla" compacts enough to be served in a mound without crumbling.

Before serving, taste and adjust salt (it may need a little more after chilling). If it has absorbed a lot of mayonnaise and seems dry, add another spoonful and mix gently.

Homemade mayonnaise: the soul of the "ensaladilla"

A good "ensaladilla" needs good mayonnaise. And good mayonnaise needs exactly 2 minutes and a hand blender. There is no excuse for using jarred mayonnaise.

Homemade mayonnaise recipe with a hand blender

1. Place the whole egg, lemon juice, salt, and oil in the blender jar (narrow and tall). All together, in no particular order.
2. Insert the hand blender to the bottom of the jar, without moving it.
3. Turn on the blender at maximum speed. You will see a white emulsion form at the base.
4. Without turning off the blender, slowly (very slowly) lift it from the bottom to the surface. In 20-30 seconds you will have perfect, thick, and shiny mayonnaise.
5. Taste and adjust salt and lemon.

Aioli variation (recommended)

For an "ensaladilla" with more character, add a small peeled garlic clove to the bottom of the jar along with the egg. The result is a mayonnaise with a subtle garlic undertone that perfectly complements the cod. It's not a strong aioli — it's a mayonnaise with a whisper of garlic.

Mayonnaise tips

• Room temperature egg: Essential. A cold egg from the fridge emulsifies poorly and can curdle.
• Oil: Use sunflower oil or a mixture of 80% sunflower + 20% mild olive oil. Pure extra virgin olive oil gives a bitter and too intense flavor for "ensaladilla".
• If it curdles: Place another egg in a clean glass and pour the curdled mayonnaise on top. Blend from the bottom — it will recover. Don't throw away curdled mayonnaise, it can always be fixed.
• Quantity: The above recipe yields about 300 ml of mayonnaise, enough for this "ensaladilla". Make more if you like your "ensaladilla" extra creamy.

Variations of codfish "ensaladilla"

Codfish "ensaladilla" with piquillo peppers

Roasted piquillo peppers are cod's best friend. For this variation, replace the bell peppers with 6-8 piquillo peppers cut into wide strips. Incorporate half chopped into the mixture and use the other half to garnish the surface. The smoky sweetness of the piquillo pepper elevates the "ensaladilla" to a gourmet restaurant level.

Confit codfish "ensaladilla" with mild aioli

Use the confit cod method in olive oil and substitute standard mayonnaise with a mild aioli (mayonnaise with a garlic clove). Add a spoonful of the confit oil to the final mixture. This is the most luxurious version and the one that most closely resembles the codfish "ensaladillas" served in Michelin-starred restaurants in the Basque Country.

Smoked codfish "ensaladilla"

If you find smoked cod (or smoke it at home with a smoking gun), the result is spectacular. The smoky flavor integrates with the mayonnaise in an addictive way. Use 300 g of thinly sliced smoked cod, without prior cooking, simply chopped and added to the mixture. The smoky flavor adds a touch of complexity that is surprising.

Codfish "ensaladilla" with green apple

A modern variation that works wonderfully: add half a green apple (Granny Smith type), peeled and cut into small cubes. The acidity and crunch of the apple contrast with the creaminess of the mayonnaise and the softness of the cod. Add the apple just before serving to maintain its texture.

Codfish "ensaladilla" with capers and lemon

A Mediterranean version that replaces gherkins with 2 tablespoons of capers and adds lemon zest to the mayonnaise. Capers provide a more elegant acidity than gherkins, and grated lemon adds an aromatic freshness that makes the "ensaladilla" lighter and more summery.

Whatever variation you choose, at Bacalalo you will find the ideal Icelandic cod and desalted cod for your "ensaladilla". Since 1990 in the Mercat del Ninot, we select the best Gadus morhua so that your recipes always turn out perfect.

Presentation and serving suggestions

The presentation of codfish "ensaladilla" can be as simple or elaborate as you wish. These are the most common options:

Bar tapa style

Serve the "ensaladilla" on an oval plate, forming a generous mound. Garnish with strips of bell pepper, slices of hard-boiled egg, and artfully arranged stuffed olives. A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sweet paprika. This is the most recognizable presentation and what everyone expects.

Pintxo style

Using an ice cream scoop or two spoons, form quenelles (ovals) of "ensaladilla" and place them on toasted bread slices. Crown each pintxo with a cod fiber, half an olive, and a touch of paprika. Perfect for events, snacks, and informal dinners.

Restaurant style

Place a plating ring in the center of the plate and fill with the "ensaladilla", pressing lightly. Carefully remove the ring. Garnish with a few thin slices of confit cod, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, some microgreens, and a sprinkle of fleur de sel. If you have piquillo peppers, place one or two on top. A touch of lemon gel or a reduction of Pedro Ximénez elevates the presentation to gourmet level.

Serving temperature

Codfish "ensaladilla" is served cold, directly from the refrigerator. Unlike Spanish omelet (which can be served warm), "ensaladilla" needs to be cold for the mayonnaise to maintain its firmness and the texture to be right. Take it out of the refrigerator 10 minutes before serving so it's not excessively cold and the flavors are better expressed.

Frequently asked questions