San Sebastián is probably the most demanding city in Spain when it comes to cod: it's where modern pil-pil was invented (José María Busca Isusi in the 70s), home to some of the best restaurants in the world, and where "txokos" (gastronomic societies) have a century-old tradition of cooking cod. Buying it here is different from any other Spanish city.
This 2026 guide explains where to buy cod in Donostia according to your use: from a "txoko pintxo" to a gourmet gift.
The 4 main options in San Sebastián
- Mercado de la Bretxa (Old Town) — traditional reference
- Specialized fishmongers in Gros, City Center, and Old Town
- Local supermarkets: Eroski, BM, Carrefour
- Online with 24h refrigerated shipping
Mercado de la Bretxa — the Donostia tradition
In the Old Town, a stone's throw from La Concha beach, Donostia's most emblematic market. Several salted fish stalls with family tradition:
- Hours: Monday to Friday 7:00-14:00, Saturdays 7:00-15:00
- What to ask for: salted Icelandic cod, fresh cod cheeks (seasonal), artisanal shredded cod, stomach and tripe
- Price: 22-38€/kg salted, 28-42€/kg artisanal desalted
- Origin: mostly Iceland (it's the Basque tradition) and Norwegian Skrei in season
- Advantage: you can ask for it cut and inquire about specific origin
- Downside: long queues on Saturdays, out of stock on cod cheeks some weeks
Tips for buying at Bretxa
- Go during the week and before 11 am — more selection
- Ask for "fresh kokotxas" (cod cheeks) on Thursdays or Fridays (they arrive from Bermeo/Ondarroa)
- Stalls with signs indicating "Icelandic Cod" are the most serious
- Ask to see the whole piece before it's cut
Specialized Fishmongers in Donostia
In addition to Bretxa, Donostia has renowned fishmongers in several neighborhoods:
Gros Neighborhood
Young gastronomic area with gourmet fishmongers. Premium products, personalized service, prices 10-15% higher than the market.
City Center and Old Town
Several traditional fishmongers that supply local restaurants. If you find a fishmonger recommended by a chef, it's a guarantee.
Antiguo Neighborhood
More oriented towards daily food, less specialization in cod but good prices.
Supermarkets in Donostia
Eroski (Basque chain)
The local chain par excellence. Strong fish counter section, with fresh loins cut to order.
- Fresh loins: 22-28 €/kg
- Vacuum-packed desalted: 14-18 €/kg
- Deluxe brand with occasional Icelandic origin: 22-30 €/kg
BM Supermarkets
Basque chain with good quality. Similar variety to Eroski, competitive price. For daily use in Donostia, it's a very valid option.
Carrefour
In Garbera (C.C. Garbera) there is a hypermarket with a complete fish counter. Detail: Carrefour Cod 2026.
Online Cod with shipping to San Sebastián
For artisanal Icelandic cod with full traceability, buy online. From Barcelona, it reaches Donostia in 24h with a cold chain. Advantages:
- Certified Icelandic origin (many supermarkets don't offer it)
- Artisanal curing for 20-25 days (vs. 7-10 industrial)
- Complete variety: 'morro' (snout), 'penca' (belly), 'cola' (tail), shredded, cod cheeks, tripe
- Free shipping from 99€
What cod to buy for Basque recipes
Traditional Pil-pil
Only artisanal Icelandic cod. Extra 'morro' or 'penca'. Bretxa, specialized store or online. Supermarket cod DOES NOT work — without natural gelatin, it won't emulsify.
Bacalao a la vizcaína (Cod Biscay style)
Extra 'penca' or 'morro'. Works with medium-high quality cod. Eroski Deluxe or BM suffice if you don't want to go to the market.
Ajoarriero (Cod with garlic and peppers)
Artisanal shredded cod. Bretxa is the winner. Supermarket shredded cod is acceptable but lacks the traditional salt point.
Cod Cheeks
Fresh in season (October-April): Bretxa or Gros fishmonger. Frozen: online or Eroski Deluxe. See Frozen vs. Fresh Cod Cheeks.
Donostia Purchase Calendar
- January-February: best time. Norwegian Skrei available, stable prices, less demand
- March: price increase due to Easter. Avoid the last week before Easter
- April-May: normalcy, good selection
- Summer: low demand, good prices but less variety in the market
- Autumn: prices start to rise with the arrival of pieces from the new fishing season
- December: Christmas price increase but Skrei and special pieces are available
- January 20 (San Sebastián Day): high demand for cod for the "tamborrada" (drum parade)
Related Guides
- Best Cod in Spain: ranking by origin
- Cod Cheeks: frozen vs fresh
- Cod Cheeks al pil-pil: traditional recipe
- Cod al pil-pil: step-by-step recipe
Conclusion: Buying Strategy in Donostia
- Txoko pil-pil or dinner with Basque friends → Bretxa or specialized store
- Daily family use → Eroski, BM
- Traceable Icelandic cod without leaving home → online with 24h refrigerated shipping
- Fresh cod cheeks → Bretxa October-April, online the rest of the year
In Donostia, tradition rules. But for Icelandic cod with certified traceability and home delivery, our artisan collection reaches all of Gipuzkoa in 24h. Free shipping from 99€.
