Cod Cannelloni: Traditional Catalan Recipe

History of cannelloni in Catalan tradition

Cannelloni is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic dishes of Catalan cuisine. Although its origin is Italian — Neapolitan cannelloni —, Catalonia adopted it as its own in the 19th century, when the influence of Italian cuisine arrived in Barcelona through Mediterranean trade and Italian chefs who settled in the city.

What makes Catalan cannelloni unique is its connection to the festivity of Sant Esteve (December 26). According to tradition, Sant Esteve's cannelloni was prepared using leftovers from Christmas stew or escudella: cooked meat was minced, mixed with sofrito, and wrapped in pasta sheets. It was the perfect leftover recipe, elevated to the category of a festive dish.

Over time, Catalan cannelloni evolved beyond meat filling. Cod cannelloni represents an equally traditional variant, especially popular during Lent and vigils, when the Church prohibited meat consumption. Salted cod, the quintessential preserved food, became the natural protagonist of these vigil cannelloni.

At Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, we have been selling first-quality Icelandic cod since 1990. We have seen generations of Catalan families buy shredded cod to prepare their Christmas cannelloni, and we know firsthand the secrets that make this dish go from good to extraordinary.

Today, cod cannelloni is prepared all year round, not just at Christmas. It is a comforting, creamy, and flavorful dish that works for both a family meal and a dinner with guests. The key lies in three elements: a well-executed cod filling, a silky béchamel, and a perfect gratin.

Ingredients for cod cannelloni

For 4-6 people (20-24 cannelloni)

For the pasta sheets

• 20-24 cannelloni sheets (dry sheets or fresh pasta)
• Plenty of salted water for cooking
• 1 tablespoon of olive oil for the cooking water

For the cod filling

• 500 g of dry shredded cod (desalted) or cod flakes
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
• 2 ripe tomatoes, grated
• 100 ml of liquid cooking cream (35% fat)
• 50 g cream cheese (Philadelphia type, optional)
• Fresh chopped parsley
• Ground black pepper
• Nutmeg (a pinch)
• Extra virgin olive oil

For the béchamel

• 80 g butter
• 80 g flour
• 1 liter of whole milk (room temperature)
• Salt, white pepper, and nutmeg

For gratinating

• 100 g grated Gruyère or Emmental cheese
• 30 g butter in small pieces

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How to prepare the cod filling

Step 1: Desalt the cod

If you use dry shredded cod, you need to desalt it beforehand. Place the cod flakes in a large bowl with cold water in the refrigerator for 24-36 hours, changing the water every 8 hours (at least 3 changes). Shredded cod desales faster than whole pieces, but it needs its time.

To check if it's ready, taste a small piece: it should have a slightly salty, pleasant taste, without being excessively salty. Well-desalted cod is the basis of balanced cannelloni. If it's too salty, the béchamel will not compensate for the excess.

Step 2: Cook the cod

Drain the desalted cod well and dry it with absorbent paper. In a large frying pan, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté for 10-12 minutes until transparent and lightly golden. Add the chopped garlic and cook for 2 more minutes, being careful not to burn it.

Add the grated tomato and cook for 8-10 minutes until the sofrito darkens and loses its acidity. This sofrito is the base of the Catalan flavor: onion, garlic, and tomato cooked with patience.

Add the shredded cod to the sofrito and cook for 5-7 minutes over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon. The cod will break down into fine strands, integrating with the sofrito. Do not overcook it — it should remain juicy, not dry.

Step 3: Make the filling creamy

Remove the pan from the heat and add the liquid cream and cream cheese (if using). Mix well until you get a creamy but consistent filling — it should not be liquid, as the cannelloni would open during baking. Add the chopped parsley, black pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg.

Carefully adjust the salt: remember that the cod already provides saltiness and the béchamel will also be seasoned. Let the filling cool completely before assembling the cannelloni — a hot filling will soften the pasta sheets and make rolling difficult.

Recipe for perfect béchamel for cannelloni

Béchamel is the soul of Catalan cannelloni. A mediocre béchamel ruins even the best filling. Here is the technique for an impeccable béchamel.

Step 1: Make the roux

Melt the butter in a thick-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat. When completely melted (without bubbling or browning), add all the flour at once. Stir constantly with a whisk for 2-3 minutes. The roux should cook until it loses the raw flour smell and acquires a light golden color. This step is crucial: a raw roux will give a floury taste to the final béchamel.

Step 2: Incorporate the milk

Remove the saucepan from the heat. Add one-third of the milk (at room temperature, never cold from the refrigerator) all at once and beat vigorously with the whisk. At first, it will look lumpy, but keep beating — it will integrate completely. Return to medium-low heat and add the rest of the milk in two more batches, always beating.

The key to avoiding lumps is: lukewarm milk + continuous beating + not too high heat. If lumps still remain, strain the béchamel through a fine sieve — no one will know.

Step 3: Cook and season

Cook the béchamel over medium-low heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently with a whisk or wooden spoon. The béchamel is ready when it coats the back of a spoon and leaves a clean trail when a finger is drawn across it. Season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg.

For cannelloni, you need a semi-dense béchamel: neither so liquid that it runs off nor so thick that it doesn't flow. It will thicken more as it cools, so leave it a bit looser than you think necessary. Cover it with plastic wrap directly touching the surface to prevent a skin from forming.

Assembling and baking the cannelloni

Step 1: Cook the pasta sheets

Bring plenty of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add a tablespoon of olive oil to prevent sticking. Cook the pasta sheets according to package instructions (generally 4-6 minutes for dry pasta, 1-2 for fresh). They should be al dente — they will finish cooking in the oven.

Carefully remove the sheets with a slotted spoon and spread them on a damp kitchen towel without overlapping. If they stick, it's a disaster — it's better to cook them in batches of 4-5 sheets than to put them all in at once.

Step 2: Fill and roll

Place a pasta sheet on the work surface. Put a generous spoonful of cod filling at the end closest to you and roll the sheet to form a cylinder. Don't press too hard — the cannelloni should be firm but not compressed, so that the béchamel can penetrate through the ends.

Arrange the cannelloni in a baking dish greased with a little butter, side by side, with the seam facing down so they don't open. They should be snug but not squashed.

Step 3: Cover with béchamel and gratinate

Pour the béchamel evenly over the cannelloni, making sure they are completely covered. Leave no gaps — uncovered pasta will dry out in the oven. Sprinkle the grated cheese on top and distribute the small pieces of butter.

Bake at 200°C with top and bottom heat for 20-25 minutes, until the surface is golden and bubbling. If it browns too quickly, cover with aluminum foil for the first 15 minutes and remove it at the end to gratinate.

Let the cannelloni rest for 5-10 minutes before serving. This allows them to set and the béchamel to thicken slightly, making them easier to serve and improving the texture.

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Tips for professional-level cannelloni

These are the secrets that differentiate homemade cannelloni from exceptional cannelloni:

• Cold filling, always: Fill the cannelloni with the mixture completely cold. A hot filling softens the pasta and makes rolling difficult.
• Long sofrito: The secret of Catalan flavor lies in a patiently cooked sofrito. At least 20 minutes for the onion and 10 for the tomato. Haste is the enemy of good sofrito.
• Double layer of béchamel: Put a thin layer of béchamel at the bottom of the dish before placing the cannelloni. This prevents them from sticking and provides extra creaminess underneath.
• Gruyère cheese, not mozzarella: For gratinating Catalan cannelloni, the ideal cheese is Gruyère or Emmental. Mozzarella melts well but doesn't gratinate with that crispy, golden crust we're looking for.
• Prepare the day before: Cannelloni gains flavor if assembled the day before and gratinéed just before serving. The béchamel penetrates the pasta and the result is more cohesive.
• Nutmeg in moderation: Both in the filling and in the béchamel, nutmeg should be subtle — an excess masks the flavor of the cod.
• Fresh vs. dry pasta: Fresh pasta gives a finer result, but dry pasta is more practical and, well cooked, perfectly valid. If using fresh pasta, reduce baking time by 5 minutes.

Variations of cod cannelloni

Cod cannelloni with spinach

A classic variation that adds 200 g of sautéed fresh spinach to the cod filling. Spinach provides color, freshness, and a vegetable counterpoint to the intense flavor of the cod. Sauté it beforehand with a clove of garlic, drain it well (spinach releases a lot of water), and chop it coarsely before mixing with the filling.

Cod cannelloni with piquillo peppers

Roasted piquillo peppers, cut into thin strips, are a perfect accompaniment to cod. You can add them to the filling or place a strip of piquillo on each pasta sheet before rolling, creating a beautiful color contrast when cutting the cannelloni.

Cod cannelloni with samfaina

Samfaina (Catalan ratatouille with eggplant, zucchini, bell pepper, and tomato) replaces the traditional sofrito as the base of the filling. It is a more summery and lighter variation, ideal for warmer months. The samfaina must be well cooked and drained so that the filling is not soggy.

Cod cannelloni with brandade

Cod brandade (cod emulsified with olive oil and milk) is used directly as a filling. The result is creamier and more delicate, with a purer cod flavor. This variation is popular in the Girona regions, where the French influence of brandade is stronger.

Frequently asked questions

Conclusion

Cod cannelloni is a dish that connects tradition, technique, and quality produce. Born from the need to make the most of leftovers and the creativity of Catalan cuisine, it has become a classic that transcends festivities to be part of the daily repertoire of many families.

The key to great cannelloni lies in the sum of small details: well-desalted cod, patiently cooked sofrito, lump-free béchamel, and a golden, crispy gratin. There are no shortcuts, but the result justifies every minute of dedication. Good quality Icelandic shredded cod makes all the difference — its firm texture and clean flavor elevate the filling from correct to memorable.

Go ahead and prepare them in advance, try some of the variations we suggest, and above all, share them in good company. Because cannelloni, in Catalonia, is not just a dish: it is a family ritual that unites generations around the table.