The Mercat del Ninot is one of Barcelona's liveliest municipal markets. It's not a tourist attraction like La Boqueria; it's not featured in travel guides. It's a real neighborhood market, where local customers know the fishmongers by name, and where, since 1990, our family has had a stall specializing in cod and premium Cantabrian preserves.
Quick Summary: Mercat del Ninot is located at Carrer de Mallorca 157, Barcelona (Eixample). Hours: Mon-Thu 8:00-14:30, Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat 8:00-15:00. Closed Sundays. Metro L5 Hospital Clínic. Bacalalo, a cod specialist stall since 1990.
What is Mercat del Ninot?
The Mercat del Ninot is one of Barcelona's 40 municipal markets, managed by the Municipal Institute of Markets of Barcelona (IMMB). It's located in the Eixample Esquerra neighborhood, between Mallorca, Casanova, Provença, and Villarroel streets.
A bit of history
The market originated in 1894 as an open-air market on the site of the old "Ninot" (a stone-carved peasant statue that gave its name to a neighborhood tavern). In 1933, the market's first building was inaugurated. In 2011, it closed for comprehensive renovation work and reopened, renovated, in September 2015, with full accessibility, energy efficiency, more spacious areas, and a Caprabo supermarket integrated on the ground floor.
The renovation was praised for maintaining the spirit of a neighborhood market instead of transforming into a tourist area. Today, local customers doing their weekly shopping coexist with chefs from Eixample restaurants looking for specific fresh produce.
Key features
- More than 40 specialized retail stalls.
- Modern structure on an area of approximately 6,000 m².
- Fishmongers, butchers, greengrocers, delicatessens, cheese shops, herbalists, wine shops, pickles, spices.
- Integrated Caprabo supermarket for complementary purchases.
- Central tasting area and tapas bar.
- Own underground parking.
- Full accessibility for people with reduced mobility.
Location, hours, and how to get there
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Address | Carrer de Mallorca, 157 · 08036 Barcelona |
| Neighborhood | Eixample Esquerra (Esquerra de l'Eixample) |
| Monday-Thursday | 08:00 - 14:30 |
| Friday | 08:00 - 20:00 (continuous workday) |
| Saturday | 08:00 - 15:00 |
| Sunday | Closed |
| Metro | L5 Hospital Clínic (200 m) · L1 Urgell (600 m) |
| Bus | 14, 27, 32, 50, 54, 59, 67, 68 |
| Parking | Yes, own underground (access Casanova 144) |
| Bicing | Nearby stations in Aribau and Muntaner |
| Official website | mercatdelninot.com |
Essential stalls
Beyond Bacalalo, there are stalls with tradition and exceptional produce worth visiting:
Fish and seafood
- Bacalalo (stall 1-2): perfectly desalted cod, dried cod, Cantabrian anchovies, premium preserves. Since 1990. (This is our stall.)
- Other market fishmongers: daily fresh fish, live seafood, Mediterranean and Cantabrian market. Ask for the catch of the day.
Butchers and delicatessens
- Butchers specializing in beef from specific breeds, Pyrenean lamb, free-range chicken.
- Iberian deli with professional carvers for acorn-fed ham.
- Catalan cured meats: fresh botifarra, llonganissa de Vic, fuet.
Fruit, vegetables, and fresh produce
- Stalls with local produce: pink Barbastro tomato, Navarra asparagus in season, Valls calçots.
- Seasonal mushrooms (autumn): rovellons, niscalos, ceps.
Cheese shop, pickles, and spices
- Cheese shop with Catalan, Manchego, Idiazábal, artisanal blue cheeses.
- Olives and pickles by weight: varieties of Aragon, Manzanilla, Kalamata, Gordal olives.
- Spices and nuts by weight.
Bakery and tasting
- Artisan bakery with sourdough, country bread, ensaimadas.
- Central tasting bar: fish to eat on the spot, tapas, traditional vermouth, sliced cured meats.
Bacalalo: the cod stall since 1990
Our stall is formally called "Bacalao Ninot" and was founded by the González family in 1990. From day one, it specialized in a simple idea: treating cod as a serious product, not just a salted commodity. Allowing customers to buy desalted cod at the exact point they need for their recipe, without having to do it at home.
What we do differently
- Controlled desalting: each piece goes through our own desalting system in temperature-controlled water. The customer tells us what recipe they're making, and we deliver the cut at the appropriate point.
- Whole dried cod: large pieces of extra-thick cod for those who want to desalt at home or use for esqueixada, traditional croquettes, or bacalao a la vizcaína.
- Premium preserves: gourmet "0" Cantabrian anchovies, Olasagasti tuna, mussels from the Galician Rías, bonito belly, natural clams.
- Ancillary products: bottled homemade pil-pil, brandade, raw croquettes ready to fry, thin and thick slices depending on use.
Storytelling: why we are still here
Many people from Eixample have been shopping with us for 30 years. Some customers are three generations: the grandmother, the mother, and the daughter who comes to pick up the piece for Christmas because they already know what to ask us for. That loyalty is what no algorithm can recreate.
In 2020, we opened an online store at bacalalo.com with shipping throughout Spain because many customers asked for our product when they moved or when family outside Barcelona wanted the same cod loins they did. Today we coexist: physical stall at Mercat del Ninot + gourmet e-commerce. The stall remains the "headquarters," the place where you learn the difference between an extra-thick piece and a tail piece.
Practical tips for smart shopping
Timing matters
- 9:00-11:00: freshly arrived market produce is at its best. Moderate queues, personalized service.
- 12:00-13:30: the busiest time. Less time for advice from the fishmonger.
- 13:30-14:30: nearing closing time. Stalls often reduce prices on the last cut of the day (fresh fish that won't last until the next day). Good time for "serious deals."
- Friday 17:00-20:00: continuous workday, many people from the neighborhood leave work and shop for the weekend. Lively atmosphere.
How to choose good fish at any stall
- Eyes: clear, bright, bulging (not sunken or cloudy).
- Gills: vibrant red, not brown.
- Smell: of clean sea, not "fishy."
- Flesh: firm to the touch, not soft. If you press with a finger, it should not leave a mark.
- Shine and scales: shiny, not dull. Scales should be attached to the skin.
How to choose cod
(This is our territory, so with expertise):
- Creamy color, not artificial white. Pure white = excessive washing.
- Firm texture, not spongy. Sponginess is a sign of water injection to increase weight.
- Visible flakes: good cod has clear fibers that separate into flakes when cooked.
- Neutral smell: if it smells of ammonia or is "strong," it's past its prime.
- For a new customer: start with the extra desalted loin, the most versatile.
Market's star products (overview)
Beyond Bacalalo, what Mercat del Ninot undeniably does well:
| Category | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Cod and preserves | Bacalalo (us). Specialized since 1990. |
| Fresh fish | Local fishmongers with daily produce from Cantabrian and Mediterranean markets. |
| Meat and cured meats | Catalan butchers with fresh botifarra, llonganissa de Vic. |
| Artisan cheeses | Selection of Catalan and national cheeses with cuts made to order. |
| Local vegetables | Produce from Maresme, Garraf, and the Pyrenees in season. |
| Pickles by weight | Aragon, Manzanilla, Kalamata, Gordal olives. Gherkins, banderillas. |
| Artisan bread | Bakeries with sourdough, country bread, coca, mona in season. |
| Wine by the bottle | Wine shops with Catalan, Rioja, Ribera, and local products. |
Online store vs. in-person visit
Many people ask us when to choose each option:
Choose an in-person visit to Mercat del Ninot if:
- You live or work in Barcelona and can easily get there.
- You want to see the product before buying and ask for personalized advice.
- You're making a special recipe and need a specific cut (extra loin for Christmas, tail for esqueixada, thick piece for vizcaína).
- You want to try it first, buy a small quantity to assess quality.
- You enjoy the market ritual: walking, smelling, chatting, discovering.
Choose the online store at bacalalo.com if:
- You live outside Barcelona and want access to our cod.
- You're looking for recurring orders with scheduled delivery (every 15 days, monthly).
- You want to gift gourmet cod to family, clients, or friends.
- You're a restaurant or store and need a larger order with an invoice.
- You prefer to shop at your own pace, compare products, and read detailed descriptions.
Related links
- Bacalalo · Gourmet cod online
- Desalted cod collection
- Gourmet preserves
- How to desalt cod at home
- Contact and stall location
Conclusion
Mercat del Ninot is not touristy, it doesn't appear in travel guides, and that is exactly its value. It's a vibrant neighborhood market where fishmongers, butchers, and cheesemakers know their customers by name and offer truly quality products.
Since 1990, our stall Bacalao Ninot (Bacalalo) has upheld the craft of perfectly desalted cod, premium Cantabrian preserves, and personal attention. If you live in Barcelona, come see it; if you live elsewhere, you'll find it at bacalalo.com. The quality is the same. The difference is the experience.
With expertise, not slogans. Since 1990 in Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona.
