Esqueixada de Cod al Hermanos Torres Style: Authentic Recipe

What is esqueixada de bacalao

Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced "es-kay-sha-da") is a traditional Catalan salad made with raw, desalted cod that is hand-shredded — hence its name, from the Catalan esqueixar, meaning to tear or shred. It's one of those dishes where simplicity hides precise technique and an absolute reliance on the raw ingredients.

Unlike other cod preparations that require baking, frying, or stewing, esqueixada is a raw dish. There's no cooking to mask a bad product. If the cod is mediocre, the esqueixada will be mediocre. If the cod is excellent — thick loins, perfect salt point, firm and clean texture — then you have a dish that rivals any ceviche in the world.

It is the quintessential Catalan summer dish. You'll find it on any Sant Joan bonfire night table, at village festivals, and in the best restaurants in Barcelona when the heat arrives. Unpretentious but with a depth of flavor that surprises anyone who tries it for the first time.

The Torres Brothers' Version: Why It's Different

Sergio and Javier Torres, the brothers who have elevated Catalan cuisine to another level from their two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Barcelona and their show Torres en la Cocina (TVE), have a particular way of preparing esqueixada that elevates it without betraying its essence.

This recipe is inspired by the version the Torres brothers prepare on their TVE show "Torres en la Cocina." Their approach is based on three principles:

• First-quality cod: The Torres brothers insist on using thick loins of desalted cod, never flakes or scraps. The cod is the star, not just another ingredient in the salad.
• Generous shredding: Not tiny pieces but ample, irregular flakes that maintain presence on the plate. Each bite should have a substantial piece of cod.
• Precise and minimal dressing: Quality extra virgin olive oil, Sherry vinegar (not just any white wine vinegar), flake salt, and freshly ground pepper. Nothing else. The dressing should enhance, not compete.

The Torres key is respect for the product. In a no-cook dish, each ingredient is eaten as it is. There's no way to disguise it. And that, for two chefs who have been working with the best purveyors for decades, is exactly what they seek: for the product to shine.

Ingredients for the Perfect Esqueixada

For 4 servings

• 400 g of first-quality desalted cod loins (thick, firm)
• 3 ripe, seasonal tomatoes (such as beefsteak or Montserrat)
• 1 spring onion (or scallion)
• 1 Italian green pepper
• 100 g of Aragon black olives (pitted)
• Extra virgin olive oil (Arbequina or mild Picual)
• 1 tablespoon of Sherry vinegar
• Flake salt (Maldon or similar)
• Freshly ground black pepper

Torres options for elevation

• 1 teaspoon of capers
• A few fresh basil leaves
• A drizzle of lemon-infused olive oil
• Grated lemon zest

The most important ingredient is, without a doubt, the cod. For a Torres-level esqueixada, you need thick, well-desalted loins with a firm texture. Second-rate cod will give you a second-rate esqueixada — there's no shortcut.

Step-by-step recipe: Torres-style esqueixada

Step 1: Prepare the cod

Ensure the cod is well desalted. If starting with salted cod, you'll need to desalt it correctly for 24-48 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. If you buy already desalted cod, check the salt level by tasting a small raw piece — it should have a pleasant but not excessive saltiness.

Pat the loins dry with paper towels. Moisture dilutes the dressing and makes the esqueixada watery.

Step 2: Hand-shred

This is the defining step. Take each loin and shred it with your hands, following the natural fibers of the cod. Do not use a knife — a knife cuts the fibers and creates regular pieces that don't absorb the dressing well. Hands create irregular flakes with more exposed surface area, more texture, and a greater capacity to absorb the oil.

The Torres brothers emphasize that the flakes should be generous: 3-4 cm, not tiny crumbs. You want to feel the cod in every bite.

Step 3: Prepare the vegetables

Dice the tomatoes into medium cubes (1.5 cm). If they are seasonal and ripe, reserve the juice — you'll add it to the dressing. Thinly julienne the spring onion. Cut the green pepper into thin strips or small dice. Pit the black olives and cut them in half.

Step 4: Assemble the esqueixada

In a wide, shallow dish (not a deep bowl — esqueixada is presented spread out), arrange the shredded cod as the base. Scatter the tomato, onion, pepper, and olives on top. Do not overmix: the dish should look generous, with each ingredient visible.

Step 5: Dress Torres-style

Drizzle with a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil — be liberal, this dish calls for oil. Add a tablespoon of Sherry vinegar (no more — the vinegar should not dominate). Finish with flake salt and freshly ground pepper. For the Torres touch, add capers, a few fresh basil leaves, and a subtle grating of lemon zest.

Step 6: Rest

Let the esqueixada rest in the refrigerator for a minimum of 30 minutes before serving. This time allows the cod to absorb the dressing and the flavors to meld. The Torres brothers recommend up to 1 hour of resting. Take it out of the refrigerator 5 minutes before serving so it's not excessively cold.

The 5 secrets to a perfect esqueixada

After studying the Torres technique and Catalan tradition, these are the factors that separate a good esqueixada from a memorable one:

1. Desalting sets the bar

Poorly desalted cod ruins everything. Too much salt and the dish will be inedible. Too little salt and it will be bland. The perfect point is a pleasant saltiness that needs no correction. Our desalting guide explains the exact process.

2. Seasonal tomatoes, never greenhouse

A greenhouse tomato in January tastes like water. A beefsteak or Montserrat tomato in July tastes like tomato. Esqueixada is a summer dish precisely because of this: it needs real tomatoes. If it's not tomato season, it's better to prepare something else.

3. Spring onion, not dry onion

Spring onion (or scallion) provides a mild sweetness and crisp texture that dry onion lacks. If you only find dry onion, soak it in cold water and vinegar for 15 minutes to soften its bite.

4. Arbequina olive oil

For esqueixada, a Catalan Arbequina olive oil is ideal: mild, fruity, without excessive bitterness. An overly intense Picual can steal the spotlight from the cod. Oil is the medium that connects all flavors — choose one that harmonizes.

5. Don't overmix

Esqueixada is not a salad that is tossed like a Caesar. It's arranged, dressed, and left. Each forkful should combine a bit of everything, but the dish on the platter should look composed, not scrambled.

Gourmet variations of esqueixada

The basic esqueixada allows for variations that enrich it without distorting its essence:

Esqueixada with mongetes (beans)

The most traditional version from inland Catalonia. Cooked mongetes del ganxet (Catalan white beans) are added to the dressing. The creaminess of the beans with the firmness of the raw cod creates an exceptional contrast of textures. This is the esqueixada of village festivals.

Esqueixada with avocado

A contemporary version that works surprisingly well. Ripe avocado adds creaminess and vegetable fat that complements the cod. Cut the avocado into large dice so it maintains its presence.

Esqueixada with orange

Orange segments, peeled à vif, interspersed among the cod flakes. The citrus acidity and sweetness of the orange elevate the dish — it's a classic Mediterranean combination (cod with orange appears in 18th-century Catalan cookbooks).

Esqueixada as a tartare

A haute cuisine version: very finely shredded cod, dressed with an olive oil vinaigrette, toasted sesame, and a touch of wasabi. Presented in a ring with toasted crystal bread. This is the esqueixada you would find in a Torres restaurant.

Pairing: wines and drinks for esqueixada

Esqueixada is a fresh dish, with the saltiness of the cod, the acidity of the tomato, and the richness of the oil. The pairing should complement this freshness:

• Penedès white: A young Xarel·lo or Macabeo from Penedès is the classic Catalan pairing. Fresh, mineral, unoaked.
• Albariño: The Galician acidity works perfectly with raw cod. Served very cold.
• Cava Brut Nature: The bubbles cleanse the saltiness of the cod and the richness of the oil. The classic Catalan Cava for esqueixada.
• Garnacha Rosé: If you prefer something with more body, a fresh rosé from Terra Alta or Montsant.
• Craft Wheat Beer: A soft and refreshing wheat beer, ideal for the hottest summer days.

History of esqueixada in Catalonia

Esqueixada is a dish with centuries of history in Catalan gastronomy. Catalonia, despite being a Mediterranean land, developed a deep relationship with salted cod starting in the 15th century, when Basque and Breton fishermen began bringing cod from the North Atlantic.

Salted cod was the inland fish: it reached mountain villages where fresh fish could not. Esqueixada was born as a practical solution — a way to eat cod in summer without lighting a fire. The Catalan heat of July and August made cooking for hours unfeasible, so cod was desalted, shredded, and eaten raw with whatever the garden provided: tomato, onion, oil.

Over time, esqueixada went from a humble subsistence dish to a Catalan gastronomic emblem. Today, it is a mandatory item on the menu of any serious Catalan restaurant and a central piece of popular summer festivities, from the Sant Joan bonfire night to the main festivals of each town.

The Torres brothers, as Catalans from Barcelona, grew up with esqueixada as part of their culinary DNA. Their version respects this history but elevates it with the technical precision that only decades of professional cooking provide.

Conclusion

Esqueixada de bacalao, Torres Brothers-style, demonstrates that the simplest dishes are the hardest to do well. With no cooking to hide flaws, no sauces to mask flavors, esqueixada is an exercise in culinary honesty where cod is everything.

If you invest in good desalted cod, seasonal tomatoes, and decent olive oil, you have a high-cuisine dish in 20 minutes without turning on a stove. That's the magic of Catalan cuisine: a lot with a little.

Discover our selection of premium desalted cod to prepare a Torres-level esqueixada. And if you want to explore more raw cod recipes, check out our guide to Catalan salad with cod.

Frequently asked questions about esqueixada de bacalao