Espetos are the soul of Málaga's beach bars: fish skewered on a reed and grilled over embers, with no seasoning other than salt. With anchovies, they are juicy on the inside and smoky on the outside, with that crispy skin that tastes of summer and sea. We'll tell you how to achieve the perfect espeto at home, with or without a barbecue.
Espetos are the Málaga way of cooking fish: skewered on bamboo reeds stuck in the sand next to an olive wood fire, with the sea in the background. It's primitive cooking elevated to art: the smoke permeates the fish, the embers brown it on the outside, the skin acts as a protective shield that keeps the inside juicy. With anchovies — smaller and more delicate than traditional sardine espetos — the result is an elegant and tasty tapa that you can replicate at home with a barbecue or, failing that, with the oven grill at maximum power.
Ingredients
- 500g whole fresh anchovies (cleaned, with central bone) (we use Gourmet Vinegar Anchovy Fillets)
- Coarse sea salt
- Extra virgin olive oil
- 2 lemons
- 4 long bamboo skewers (soaked for 30 min in water so they don't burn)
Step-by-step preparation
- Skewer 5-6 anchovies on each skewer, threading them through the bone area (not through the flesh, which is fragile and breaks). The anchovies should be parallel and tightly packed, like little soldiers in a row, with the skin facing outwards.
- Season generously with coarse salt on both sides. Coarse salt adheres better than fine salt, does not penetrate too deeply into the delicate flesh of the anchovy, and creates a saline crust that protects the surface from direct heat.
- Grill or barbecue: 3 minutes per side Grill on a barbecue over white embers (without flame) or under the oven grill at maximum power, with the skewers 8-10 cm from the heating element: 3 minutes per side. The skin should be golden, crispy, and slightly bubbly. Don't overdo it: anchovies are thin and dry out in an instant.
- Drizzle with plenty of extra virgin olive oil and serve with lemon wedges. They are eaten directly from the skewer, with your hands, pulling off each anchovy with your fingers. It's beach food brought to your table.
The house trick
If you don't have a barbecue, the oven grill at maximum power is the closest alternative. The wood smoke, which is irreplaceable, is missing, but you can simulate some of the aroma by adding a pinch of smoked paprika from La Vera to the oil you drizzle over the espetos after grilling. It's not the same as a Málaga barbecue, but it's close enough.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make espetos without a barbecue?
Yes: a very hot iron griddle or a grill over a fire achieves a similar result. The secret is strong side heat and not turning them too much.
How do I prevent the anchovy from sticking?
Dry it well, salt it just before, and make sure the grill or reed is very hot and clean before putting the fish on.
What size anchovy is ideal?
Medium-sized anchovies, fresh and whole, that can withstand the heat without falling apart and remain juicy in the center.
