Summary: Escalivada with cod is possibly the most iconic combination in Catalan cuisine. Two ingredients with history, with their own identity, that together create something greater than the sum of their parts: the smoky sweetness of fire-roasted vegetables and the intense saltiness of cod in its different forms—esqueixat, flaked, or grilled.
The word "escalivar" comes from old Catalan: to cook between embers, in the hot ashes of the hearth. This ancestral technique of roasting eggplants and peppers directly over the fire gives escalivada that smoky flavor that cannot be imitated by any other cooking method. And cod, with its centuries-old tradition in Catalan gastronomy, is its natural companion.
At Bacalalo, since 1990, we have been selecting cod in Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona—a few meters from where many families in l'Eixample have bought their "bacallà" for their escalivada generation after generation. Here we explain how to make the perfect escalivada and the three most traditional ways to combine it with cod.
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What is Escalivada?
Escalivada is a roasted vegetable salad—mainly eggplant and red pepper—dressed with extra virgin olive oil, salt, and sometimes vinegar. Some versions add roasted onions and tomatoes. It is a dish originating from Catalonia, though it also extends to Valencia and Aragon with variations.
What defines escalivada is the cooking method: the vegetables must be roasted directly over embers or an open flame, not in the oven. Direct contact with the fire creates two fundamental things: the skin burns (and is later peeled) and the interior cooks in its own steam, becoming tender with an inimitable smoky flavor.
Oven-roasted escalivada is different. It works, it's more convenient to make at home, but the flavor is not the same. We'll explain everything.
Ingredients for Homemade Escalivada (4 servings)
For the escalivada:- 2 medium eggplants
- 3 large red peppers
- 1 large onion (optional)
- 2 ripe tomatoes (optional)
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt
- Sherry vinegar (optional, for dressing at the end)
For the cod:
- 400-500g of cod depending on the chosen preparation:
Perfect Escalivada: Step-by-Step
Option A: Grilled Escalivada (The Authentic Way)
This is the original and superior version. You need embers or a live flame—a charcoal grill, a wood fire, or the direct flame of a gas hob.
Place the whole, unoiled vegetables directly over the embers or flame. The eggplants and peppers go unpeeled and uncut. Eggplants take about 20-25 minutes (turning every 5-7 minutes) and peppers 15-20 minutes. The skin should burn—this black crust is what is later peeled and has protected the inside from burning, while the smoke has permeated the flesh.
When the vegetables are soft to the touch with tongs, remove them from the fire. Place them in a large bowl and cover them with plastic wrap or aluminum foil. Let them sweat for 15-20 minutes—the steam facilitates peeling and continues cooking the inside.
Peel them when they are warm, not cold—peeling while warm is much easier. Never rinse them with water to remove the skin: you would lose the smoky flavor.
Option B: Oven-Baked Escalivada (For Home)
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) with top and bottom heat. Place the whole vegetables on a baking tray. Roast them for 40-50 minutes, turning halfway through cooking. In the last 5 minutes, if you have a grill function, activate it so the skin burns slightly.
Proceed as with the grilled version: wrap, sweat, peel. The flavor will not have the smokiness of the grill, but the texture will be correct.
Peeling and Dressing
Once peeled, cut the eggplants into long strips—do not chop them, long strips are the traditional presentation. Do the same with the peppers, removing the core and seeds.
Place everything on a flat platter. Dress generously with extra virgin olive oil, salt, and, if you wish, a touch of sherry vinegar. The dressing should be simple: the truth of the smoky flavor doesn't need much more.
Escalivada is best at room temperature or slightly warm, never cold from the fridge.
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3 Ways to Serve Escalivada with Cod
Method 1: Escalivada with Bacallà Esqueixat
Esqueixat (from the Catalan "esguixar", to tear apart) is raw, desalted cod that is hand-shredded into small flakes. It is not cooked—the salt has already "cured" it. It is the freshest and lightest combination of the three.
How to make esqueixat: You need very well-desalted cod (taste it first—it should be perfectly salted but not bland). Take the cod loin with your hands and shred it following the direction of the fibers, into small, irregular flakes of 2-3 cm. Do not cut it with a knife—the manual shredding gives the characteristic texture of esqueixat.
Assembly: Place the dressed escalivada on the platter. Distribute the esqueixat flakes on top. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, add salt if necessary, and if you want a touch of acidity, a few drops of lemon or a splash of sherry vinegar. You can add finely chopped fresh spring onion and black olives.
At Bacalalo, we have cod specially selected for esqueixada and esqueixat. View our selection for esqueixat.
Method 2: Escalivada with Flaked Confit Bacallà
Confit cod is cod cooked very slowly in olive oil at a low temperature (between 60°C and 70°C / 140-158°F). The result is large, tender, and extremely juicy flakes that melt in your mouth.
How to confit cod: Place the desalted cod loins in a saucepan. Cover them completely with extra virgin olive oil. Heat over very low heat until the oil reaches 60-65°C (a kitchen thermometer is very useful here, but you can do it by eye: the oil should be hot but not bubbling at all). Maintain this temperature for 8-12 minutes depending on the thickness of the loin.
Carefully remove the cod—it falls apart just by looking at it. Place it over the escalivada with a wide spatula. The confit oil is infused with the cod's flavor and can be used to dress the escalivada.
This version is the most elegant of the three and a favorite in restaurants. The contrast between the gelatinous texture of the confit cod and the softness of the roasted vegetables is extraordinary.
Method 3: Escalivada with Grilled Bacallà
The most substantial. The cod is grilled at the same time as the vegetables—or separately, if you don't want to mix flavors on the grill.
How to grill cod: Desalted cod loins go directly onto the grill, skin-side down. Over high heat, 3-4 minutes on the skin side (until golden and crispy) and 1-2 minutes on the flesh side. Do not move the cod during cooking—let it cook undisturbed. When the flesh changes from translucent to opaque halfway through the loin, it's ready.
The combination of smoky escalivada and grilled cod has a double smokiness that can be very intense—it's the most powerful version of the three.
Classic Variations and Additions
With black olives: Arbequina or Kalamata olives are a classic accompaniment to escalivada. Their bitterness balances the sweetness of the roasted vegetables.
With anchovies: An Cantabrian anchovy fillet on top of the escalivada with cod adds an extra layer of umami flavor. It's a common combination in tapas throughout Catalonia.
With escalivada onion: Onion roasted on the grill (in wedges, without separating the rings) has a caramelized sweetness that is perfect with cod. Don't forget it in the recipe.
With escalivada tomato: Tomato roasted on the grill loses acidity and gains concentrated sweetness. It is peeled like eggplant and pepper and added to the mixture.
With romesco: In Tarragona, escalivada is sometimes served with romesco sauce (ñoras, tomato, almonds, garlic) instead of just dressing it with oil. The combination with cod is exceptional.
Tips for Perfect Escalivada
Grilling has no real substitute. If you can do it over direct fire, do it over direct fire. The smoky flavor is the soul of the dish. It comes out well in the oven but different.
Do not peel cold. Peeling vegetables is much easier when they are warm. The steam they release inside the plastic wrap or aluminum foil helps the skin to peel off easily.
Never run the vegetables under water to peel them. You would lose the smoky flavor you just worked so hard to achieve.
Dress with time. Dressed escalivada with extra virgin olive oil and salt needs to rest for at least 30 minutes for the flavors to integrate. It's even better the next day—the flavors meld more.
Serving temperature. Escalivada is not served cold (from the fridge) or hot. Room temperature is ideal—or slightly warm if you've just made it.
Where to Buy Cod for Escalivada
For esqueixat, you need very well-desalted cod—neither too salty (inedible) nor bland (loses its charm). It is the preparation where the quality of desalting matters most because the cod is not cooked.
For confit cod, a thick loin that maintains its shape during cooking in oil. And for grilling, a loin with skin that can withstand direct heat.
At Bacalalo, since 1990 in Mercat del Ninot, we have cod selected for each preparation. View our cod selection. We also have "taco de bacallà"—the rectangular cut from the center of the loin, ideal for the confit or grilled version.
Frequently Asked Questions about Escalivada with Cod
What vegetables are in traditional escalivada?
The essential ones are eggplant and red pepper. Onion is a very common addition. Tomato is added in some versions, especially in more Valencian ones. Green pepper sometimes appears, although red is the most traditional due to its greater sweetness.
Does escalivada have vinegar?
It depends on the version and personal taste. Classic escalivada is dressed only with extra virgin olive oil and salt. Vinegar (Sherry, preferably) is an addition that many Catalan families incorporate to add a touch of acidity. It's not essential but it's a valid option.
Can escalivada be made without embers, in the oven?
Yes. The result is different in flavor (without the smokiness of the embers) but the texture is the same. Roast at 200°C (400°F) for 45-50 minutes, turning the vegetables halfway. To compensate for the lack of smokiness, you can add a little smoked paprika from La Vera to the final dressing.
How long does escalivada last in the fridge?
Dressed escalivada keeps in the fridge for 3 to 5 days in a covered container. In fact, it's better the next day—the flavors integrate more. Take it out of the fridge 20-30 minutes before serving so it reaches room temperature.
Is esqueixat cod cooked?
No. Esqueixat is raw, desalted cod, uncooked. The salting acts as a curing method (similar to ceviche with acid). The cod must be perfectly desalted to be safe and pleasant to eat raw. If you have doubts about the salt level or the origin of the cod, briefly confiting it is a safer option.
Is escalivada with cod a summer dish or an all-year-round dish?
It's a versatile dish but is best enjoyed in summer and early autumn when red peppers and eggplants are in season. In winter, greenhouse peppers have less flavor. That said, with quality produce, it can be made all year round.
What's the difference between escalivada and samfaina?
Samfaina is a sautéed vegetable dish cooked in oil (similar to French ratatouille or Spanish pisto) — the vegetables are chopped and cooked in a pan. Escalivada consists of whole vegetables grilled or roasted in the oven, with their skin on, which are then peeled and dressed. They are very different techniques and results.
Can escalivada be frozen?
Yes, although the texture changes slightly — the vegetables may become a bit softer after thawing. Freeze the escalivada without the cod (thawed cod loses a lot of texture). Thaw in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours.
Can I use jarred piquillo peppers instead of roasted peppers?
In a pinch, jarred piquillo peppers are an acceptable substitute. They don't have the smoky flavor of grilled peppers, but their sweetness is similar. The final result is different — sweeter and less complex — but it works for a quick version.
Does escalivada with cod contain garlic?
Traditional escalivada doesn't include garlic in the dressing — the flavor should be that of the roasted vegetables. Some more modern versions add confit garlic or black garlic. With esqueixat cod, a little finely minced garlic can be added, although it's not traditional.
