Summary: Brandada de bacalao is one of the most elegant and sensual dishes in Mediterranean cuisine. Originally from the south of France (brandade de Nîmes), it arrived in Catalonia and Valencia where it became deeply rooted, especially in Easter cuisine and in the menus of good traditional Catalan restaurants. It is not uncommon to see brandada de bacalao on the menu alongside dishes of much greater lineage: it has that ability of humble dishes to conquer the most demanding tables.
Brandada in its purest version is an emulsion of shredded cod with olive oil: the cod is beaten or energetically moved while oil is added in a stream, until a creamy paste is created that can be more or less fine depending on taste. In the most widespread Spanish and Catalan version, garlic is added, sometimes hot milk, and sometimes potato to make the mixture smoother and more economical. Gratinated in the oven with a golden and crunchy crust, brandada transforms into a dish that is eaten with spoons and sighs.
At Bacalalo, we have been selecting the best Gadus morhua cod since 1990 at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona for preparations like this, where the cod must be of such quality that its flavor remains present even after being emulsified with oil. We tell you the complete recipe for oven-baked gratinated brandada, in its most traditional and flavorful version.
Contents
Ingredients for 6 people
For the brandada:- 600 g of desalted cod loins (or 750 g salted)
- 200 ml of extra virgin olive oil (fruity flavor, not too intense)
- 100-150 ml of hot whole milk
- 3-4 cloves of garlic
- 2 medium cooked potatoes (optional, for a smoother and more economical version)
- Ground white pepper
- Nutmeg
- Salt (a little, cod is already salty)
- Fine breadcrumbs (4 tablespoons)
- 2 tablespoons of olive oil
- Optional: grated Parmesan or aged Manchego cheese (30 g)
- Toasted rustic bread slices or crostini
- Extra virgin olive oil for the final drizzle
- Fresh chopped parsley
- Roasted piquillo peppers (classic combination)
Step-by-Step Preparation
Step 1: Desalt and Cook the Cod
Desalt it correctly if it's salted (48h with changes every 8-12h in the fridge). Once desalted, briefly cook the loins: submerge them in hot milk (not boiling) for 8-10 minutes over very low heat. This milk cooking method softens the cod's collagen and makes the brandada creamier.
Remove the cod, reserve the cooking milk (you will use it for the brandada), and flake the cod with your fingers into large pieces, completely removing the skin and all bones. Skin and bones should not be present in the final brandada.
You can also use Bacalalo desalted cod loins directly: briefly cook them in milk and flake them.
Step 2: Confit the Garlic
In a small saucepan, heat 50 ml of the oil over very low heat and add the peeled whole garlic cloves. Confit them for 15-20 minutes at a very low temperature (without sputtering) until they are completely tender. Confit garlic has a mild, sweet, and non-aggressive flavor that is perfect for brandada.
Remove the garlic from the oil and mash it with a fork until a smooth paste is obtained. Reserve the confit oil.
Step 3: Cook the Potatoes (if using)
If you're making the version with potato (the most common in Catalonia), cook 2 medium potatoes with skin in salted water for 30-35 minutes. Peel them while hot and mash them with a fork or pass them through a potato ricer. Do not use a blender: the potato starch, when mechanically processed, becomes gummy.
Incorporate the confit garlic paste into the mashed potatoes and mix well.
Step 4: Make the Brandada (the Emulsion)
Place the flaked cod (with potatoes and garlic if using) in a large bowl or a stand blender. If doing it by hand (the most traditional version), with a fork or by mashing in a mortar, add the remaining oil in a thin stream while continuously mixing, as if making mayonnaise. The cod will absorb the oil and create the characteristic emulsion.
If you use a blender (easier version), blend the cod with the garlic at medium speed and gradually add the oil in a thin stream while the blender is running. Then add the hot cooking milk little by little until the desired texture is achieved: more milk = smoother and more liquid brandada; less milk = denser and firmer brandada.
Season with white pepper and nutmeg. Taste and adjust salt.
Step 5: The Perfect Texture
The perfect brandada has a texture between a mousse and a purée: creamy, smooth, easy to spread but not liquid. It is white or ivory, with some visible pieces of cod if you chose not to blend it completely.
If it's too dense, add more hot milk, spoonful by spoonful. If it's too liquid, gently heat it in a saucepan while stirring: heat helps to bind the emulsion.
Step 6: Prepare for Gratin
Preheat the oven to 200°C with grill function. Pour the brandada into an oven-safe dish or individual clay ramekins (for a more elegant presentation). Spread evenly with a spatula. The layer should be about 3-4 cm thick.
Mix the breadcrumbs with the olive oil and, if using, the grated cheese. Distribute this mixture over the brandada in an even layer.
Step 7: Gratin in the Oven
Place the dish in the oven under the grill for 8-12 minutes, constantly monitoring. Gratinating is quick and can overcook in an instant. The crust should be golden and slightly crispy, but the brandada underneath should remain creamy and hot.
If your oven's grill is very powerful, place the dish in the middle position of the oven instead of the top.
Step 8: Serve
Serve the brandada immediately, directly from the oven dish, with toasted bread or crostini on the side for spreading. A drizzle of raw extra virgin olive oil on top and fresh chopped parsley finish the dish.
Expert Tips
Oil and milk temperature is critical. For the emulsion to form correctly, oil and milk must be added hot or at room temperature, never cold. Cold causes the emulsion to break and the brandada becomes grainy and greasy.
Potato softens without losing cod flavor. Potato in brandada is not an adulterant: it is an ingredient that softens the texture and makes the preparation less rich in fat. Brandada without potato is more intense in flavor but also heavier. With potato, it is lighter and more accessible for all palates.
Do not over-blend. Brandada blended for too long becomes completely smooth and loses its characteristic texture. Small recognizable pieces of cod in the paste are part of the dish's identity.
Gratin is made at the moment. Brandada can be prepared hours in advance, but the gratin must be done just before serving. A freshly gratinated brandada with a crispy crust and creamy interior is an experience; a reheated one with a cold crust loses its charm.
Oil variety matters. For brandada, use a mild fruity olive oil. Very intense oils (spicy, bitter) overpower the cod flavor. An Arbequina or a mild Hojiblanca are perfect.
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Recipe Variations
Cod brandada with truffle. Add a few drops of truffle oil or a few slices of grated truffle to the brandada before gratinating. The combination of truffle and cod is one of the most luxurious pairings in Mediterranean cuisine.
Brandada on piquillo peppers. Fill roasted piquillo peppers with brandada, place them in a dish, and gratinate. The sweetness of the piquillo pepper and the saltiness of the brandada are a classic and spectacular combination.
Mini-brandadas on toast. For an appetizer version, spread the brandada on toasted baguette slices, add a little breadcrumbs and gratinate for 4-5 minutes. They are perfect bites to serve as a pintxo at parties and gatherings.
What to Pair With
- Toasted rustic bread or baguette crostini
- Piquillo peppers in olive oil
- Pitted black olives
- Tomato and onion salad with oregano
- Full-bodied white wine: Catalan Chardonnay, Viognier, or Rueda
- Cava brut nature for a more festive version
Why Cod Quality Matters
In brandada, the cod is completely exposed: there are no spices, no complex sauces, nothing to hide the quality of the fish. Brandada is an emulsion of cod and oil, and 80% of the dish's flavor depends on the quality of the cod. A top-quality Gadus morhua cod, well-cured and properly desalted, yields an ivory-colored brandada with deep flavor and silky texture. Mediocre cod produces a bland, characterless paste.
At Bacalalo, we have known this since 1990, when we started at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona. Every loin we sell has certified Gadus morhua origin and the curing process that guarantees the texture and flavor that brandada requires. Our desalted cod is the perfect ingredient for this recipe.
Frequently Asked Questions about Cod Brandada
What exactly is cod brandada?
Brandada (or brandade de bacalhão / brandada de bacallà) is a creamy emulsion of shredded cod with olive oil, sometimes with garlic, milk, and potato. It is a dish of Provençal origin (southern France) widely spread in Catalan and Valencian cuisine in Spain.
Can brandada be made without potato?
Yes. The version without potato is more intense in flavor, higher in fat, and has a denser texture. The version with potato is smoother, lighter, and perhaps more accessible for those who are not as fond of cod. Authentic Nîmes brandada does not contain garlic or potato, only cod, olive oil, and milk.
Why does the brandada emulsion break?
The emulsion breaks when the oil or milk is too cold, when added too quickly, or when over-processed. If it breaks, gently heat the mixture in a bain-marie while stirring vigorously: it often recovers.
Can cod brandada be frozen?
Brandada with potato does not freeze well (potato changes texture upon thawing). Brandada without potato freezes acceptably, although the emulsion may separate slightly. If you freeze it, thaw it in the refrigerator and gently heat it in a bain-marie while stirring to restore the emulsion.
How long does brandada last in the refrigerator?
Well-covered in the refrigerator, 3-4 days. Ungratinated brandada keeps better than already gratinated brandada, which loses its crispy crust.
Can I make brandada in a Thermomix?
Yes. Cook the cod in the Thermomix (5 min / 90°C / speed 1) with the milk. Remove the milk, add the garlic, and blend (15 sec / speed 4). Then add the oil in a stream with the machine running at speed 4. Incorporate the hot milk little by little at speed 3. The result is smoother than the manual version but very creamy.
What is the difference between brandada and bacallà a la llauna?
Bacallà a la llauna is cod cooked in a baking dish with paprika, garlic, and oil, without emulsifying. Brandada is shredded cod emulsified in oil until it forms a cream. They are two completely different dishes, although both are Catalan.
Is brandada served hot or cold?
Gratinated brandada is served hot, fresh from the oven. Ungratinated brandada can be served at room temperature as a dip or spread on crostini. When cold from the refrigerator, it loses texture and the oil's fat solidifies.
What cheese is best for gratinating brandada?
Grated Parmesan cheese creates a thin, very flavorful crust. Grated aged Manchego cheese creates a more intense, Spanish crust. Gruyère creates the most golden and stringy crust. If you don't want cheese, just breadcrumbs with oil create an excellent and lighter crust.
How many grams of brandada per person?
As a starter or tapa, 80-100 g of brandada per person with toast is sufficient. As a main course with accompaniment, 150-200 g per person.
Can brandada be made with fresh cod?
It is not traditional and the result is different. Fresh cod does not have the flavor concentration or texture of cured cod. Technically it is possible, but the flavor is milder and the emulsion less stable. Salted cod (and its curing process) is an essential part of what makes brandada special.
Why is my brandada too greasy?
Due to excess oil in relation to the cod and milk. Add more hot milk little by little until the texture is balanced. Well-made brandada should not look oily or leave puddles of oil on the plate.
Conclusion
Oven-baked gratinated cod brandada is a dish that combines Mediterranean culinary tradition with a natural elegance that makes it appropriate for any occasion, from an informal dinner to a celebratory table. Creamy, flavorful, with that golden crust contrasting with the silky interior, it is one of those dishes that make cod the absolute protagonist.
To make a truly memorable brandada, start with the best cod. At Bacalalo, your trusted fishmonger at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona since 1990, you will find the Gadus morhua loins that this recipe deserves. Because the perfect brandada begins with the perfect cod.
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