In summary: Bacalao a la Riojana, Arguiñano style: sauce with rehydrated choricero pepper + Serrano ham + Rioja Tempranillo wine. Sear the cod first and cook in the sauce for only 8 minutes to prevent it from drying out.
Table of contents
Bacalao a la Riojana: origin and the Arguiñano version
Bacalao a la Riojana is one of La Rioja's iconic dishes, alongside patatas a la Riojana and roasted lamb. Its origin dates back to the fishing tradition of the Ebro River and the import of salted cod from the Cantabrian Sea to inland areas. The Riojan sauce combines choricero peppers, ñoras, red wine, and onion in a deep yet sweet base.
Karlos Arguiñano's version simplifies some steps: he uses only choricero pepper (no ñoras), incorporates Serrano ham for added flavor, and applies his gentle cod cooking technique to prevent it from drying out. It is one of his most reproduced recipes in shows and books.
Ingredients (4 people)
- 4 desalted cod loins (200-250 g each)
- 4 choricero peppers (or 4 tbsp choricero paste)
- 2 large onions, chopped
- 3 garlic cloves
- 100 g finely chopped Serrano ham
- 250 ml Rioja Tempranillo red wine
- 2 grated tomatoes
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 bay leaves
- 50 ml EVOO
- Salt, pepper, flour for dusting cod
Step-by-step (45 min)
- Rehydrate choricero peppers: 30 min in warm water. Scrape out the flesh with a spoon.
- Sauté onion 10 min in EVOO until golden. Add garlic, sauté 2 min.
- Add chopped ham, sauté 2 min.
- Add grated tomato, sugar, and scraped choricero pepper. Cook 10 min.
- Add red wine and reduce for 5 min over medium heat (alcohol evaporates).
- Add bay leaf and a glass of water if the sauce is too thick. Cook 10 min more. Season with salt and pepper.
- Meanwhile, sear cod: Dust loins with flour on the skin side. Heat a pan with EVOO. Sear 30 sec per side. Set aside.
- Add cod to the sauce, skin-side down. Cook for 8 minutes over low heat, without stirring (move the pot).
- Serve hot with bread for dipping.
Master Arguiñano's tricks
Sear first, cook later. Raw cod in sauce releases water and dilutes it. Seared for 30 sec in a pan, it "seals" the surface.
Strain the sauce through a chinois (optional). If you want a smooth, restaurant-style sauce. If you like it rustic, leave the chunks.
Reduce the wine well. Raw alcohol leaves a "sharp" taste. Cook for at least 5 min.
No lid for the last few minutes. This allows the sauce to reduce and concentrate.
Final rest off-heat for 3 min before serving. The cod finishes heating in the residual warmth.
Desalted cod loins for Riojana style
Extra Gadus morhua loins from Iceland, guaranteed size, desalted and vacuum-packed. Ready for your Riojana recipe.
Frequently asked questions
What makes Arguiñano's version different?
How to rehydrate choricero peppers?
Is Rioja red wine mandatory?
Salted dried cod or desalted?
How long to cook the cod?
Does it contain ñoras in addition to choricero pepper?
Can it be prepared in advance?
To conclude
Arguiñano's version of bacalao a la Riojana is the most accessible for home cooking without sacrificing the character of the original dish. With Icelandic cod loins and a good Rioja Tempranillo, it elevates a home dinner to a "special occasion." Important: cod in sauce for a maximum of 8 minutes.
The entire range of Bacalalo cod
Extra loin, shredded, kokotxas. Artisan selection from Mercat del Ninot since 1990.
