Anchovies in Haute Cuisine: Recipes from Berasategui, Arzak, and Torres

The recipes in this article are inspired by the technique and style of each chef mentioned. They are not literal reproductions, but our interpretations.

Anchovies in Spanish haute cuisine

Cantabrian anchovies have evolved from a humble pantry ingredient to star in dishes at Spain's most Michelin-starred restaurants. Their intense umami, smooth texture, and versatility make them an ingredient that works both raw and cooked, in appetizers as well as main courses.

Three names stand out for their masterful use of anchovies:

• Martín Berasategui (12 Michelin stars): uses anchovies as a flavor enhancer and as a main ingredient in tempuras and emulsions.
• Juan Mari Arzak (3 Michelin stars, pioneer of new Basque cuisine): integrated anchovies into unusual combinations with fruits, flowers, and multiple textures.
• Torres Brothers (2 Michelin stars): feature anchovies in Mediterranean dishes with Catalan roots, combining them with seasonal vegetables and infused oils.

If you're interested in exploring more about anchovies in haute cuisine, visit our article on anchovies and Michelin stars.

Berasategui: Crispy anchovy tempura with black garlic aioli

Berasategui's anchovy tempura is one of those preparations that seems simple but hides a precise technique. The key lies in the ultra-thin batter and the contrast of temperatures: cold anchovy, very hot oil, resulting in a crispy exterior and melting interior.

Ingredients (4 servings)

• 12 Cantabrian anchovy fillets in olive oil
• 100 g wheat flour
• 50 g cornstarch
• 200 ml very cold sparkling water
• Sunflower oil for frying
• 4 cloves black garlic
• 100 ml homemade aioli

Preparation

1. Black garlic aioli: Blend 4 cloves of black garlic with 100 ml of aioli until a smooth, dark grey cream is obtained. Chill.
2. Tempura batter: Mix flour and cornstarch. Add sparkling water all at once and mix only 5-6 times with chopsticks. The batter MUST have lumps; if it's smooth, it will be heavy.
3. Dry the anchovies: Drain the fillets on absorbent paper. Remove as much oil as possible.
4. Fry: Heat oil to 180 °C. Dip each anchovy in the batter and fry for 30-40 seconds. They should be light blond, never dark golden.
5. Serve: On absorbent paper for 10 seconds, then plate with the black garlic aioli on the side.

Arzak: Anchovy with mango and crystallized ginger

Juan Mari Arzak was the great revolutionary of Basque cuisine. His flavor laboratory at the Arzak restaurant (San Sebastián) has produced combinations that initially seem impossible but work perfectly. Anchovy with mango and ginger is a perfect example of his style.

Ingredients (4 servings)

• 8 premium Cantabrian anchovy fillets
• 1 ripe mango, thinly sliced
• 30 g crystallized ginger, diced small
• Toasted sesame oil (a few drops)
• Shiso or basil sprouts
• Rice vinegar

Preparation

1. Slice the mango: Cut 2 mm slices with a mandoline. Dress with a few drops of rice vinegar and sesame oil.
2. Assemble: Place an anchovy fillet on each mango slice. Add 2-3 diced pieces of crystallized ginger.
3. Finish: Crown with a shiso sprout. Drizzle with toasted sesame oil from 30 cm height.

The sweet-salty-umami contrast is Arzak's signature. The mango provides tropical sweetness, the anchovy its marine salinity, and the crystallized ginger a sweet-spicy touch that brings it all together.

Torres: Anchovy with roasted Mediterranean vegetables

The Torres Brothers, from their open-kitchen restaurant in Barcelona, bring anchovies to the Mediterranean realm. Their style is based on combining products from land and sea, using modern techniques but recognizable flavors.

Ingredients (4 servings)

• 12 Cantabrian anchovy fillets
• 2 roasted piquillo peppers
• 1 eggplant
• 2 ripe tomatoes
• Arbequina EVOO
• Sherry vinegar
• Fresh basil leaves

Preparation

1. Roast the vegetables: Eggplant and tomatoes in the oven at 200 °C for 35-40 minutes. Peel and cut into strips.
2. Escalivada base: Mix the roasted vegetables with the piquillo peppers cut into strips. Dress with EVOO and Sherry vinegar.
3. Assemble: On a flat plate, arrange the escalivada as a base. Place the anchovy fillets fanned out on top.
4. Torres finish: A generous drizzle of raw Arbequina EVOO, fresh basil leaves, and a pinch of freshly ground black pepper.

Anchovy foam: Advanced haute cuisine technique

Anchovy foam is one of the most elegant preparations that can be made with this ingredient. Several Michelin-starred chefs have incorporated it into their tasting menus as an accompaniment to white fish, toast, or vegetables.

Ingredients

• 6 anchovy fillets in oil
• 200 ml whipping cream (35% fat)
• 100 ml fish stock
• 1 gelatin leaf (or 1 g agar-agar)

Preparation

1. Blend the anchovies with the hot fish stock until a homogeneous liquid is obtained.
2. Strain through a fine sieve. Incorporate the hydrated gelatin (or dissolved agar-agar).
3. Add the cold cream and mix well.
4. Pour into an ISI siphon with 1-2 N2O chargers. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
5. Serve directly from the siphon over toast, fish, or steamed vegetables.

If you don't have a siphon, you can whip the cream until semi-firm by hand and mix it with the cold anchovy puree to obtain a mousse (denser but equally delicious).

Chef-style anchovy butter

Compound anchovy butter is a resource used by virtually all Michelin-starred chefs. It's the quickest way to add umami and depth to any fish, meat, or vegetable dish.

Ingredients

• 200 g unsalted butter at room temperature
• 6 anchovy fillets in oil, drained
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Chopped fresh chives (optional)

Preparation

1. Mash the anchovies until a fine paste is formed.
2. Mix with the softened butter, lemon juice, and pepper.
3. Spread on cling film, roll into a cylinder, and freeze for at least 2 hours.
4. Cut into 1 cm slices and place on grilled fish, red meats, or steamed vegetables.

Which anchovies to choose for haute cuisine

Not all anchovies are suitable for these techniques. Michelin-starred chefs are extremely demanding about raw materials:

• Origin: Cantabrian, spring season (April-June). Santoña anchovies are the benchmark.
• Category: 00 (Doble Cero) — large, firm fillets, without tears or blemishes. To delve deeper, read our 00 Double Zero anchovy guide.
• Maturation: Minimum 12 months in salt. Top chefs prefer maturation of 18-24 months.
• Oil: Packed in quality EVOO. Never in sunflower oil for haute cuisine.

Preservation and serving

Professional chefs follow strict rules with anchovies:

• Serving temperature: Remove from refrigeration 15-20 minutes before serving. At room temperature, they develop their full aroma.
• Preservation: Once opened, transfer to a glass container covered with EVOO. Consume within 5-7 days maximum.
• Never overcook: Anchovies lose texture and flavor with prolonged direct heat. In tempura, maximum 40 seconds. In sauces, add at the end off the heat.
• Universal pairing: Anchovies pair well with butter, citrus, vinegar, garlic, peppers, mango, tomato, and hard cheeses.

Conclusion

Cantabrian anchovies are much more than an appetizer on toast. Chefs like Berasategui, Arzak, and the Torres Brothers have shown that this ingredient has almost infinite potential in haute cuisine: from crispy tempuras to foams, as well as combinations with tropical fruits or compound butters.

The key, as always in haute cuisine, lies in the quality of the raw material. A 00 Cantabrian anchovy, well-aged and preserved in EVOO, is the starting point for any of these techniques.

Explore our selection of Cantabrian anchovies and take your cooking to the next level.

Frequently asked questions