Summary: Cod doesn't have a single city. It's a shared gastronomic heritage that, in various ways, has become essential to the culinary identity of cities as different as Bilbao, Madrid, and Barcelona. Each adopted it for different reasons, cooked it in its own way, and made it their own.
This guide explores that history, highlights what has made each city special in the world of cod, briefly discusses the landscape of specialized stores, and explains why, today, buying cod online is a completely viable option for accessing artisanal quality from anywhere in Spain.
At Bacalalo, we have been in Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot since 1990, with cod as the central focus of our activity. We are not neutral on this matter — but we are expert enough to speak about it with knowledge.
The History of Cod in Spain: Why it Reached the Cities
Cod arrived in Spain in its salted and dried form — the bacalada — from the fishing grounds of the North Atlantic (Norway, Iceland, Newfoundland). The reason for its historical success is simple: it could be transported for months without refrigeration, reached any inland point in the country, and was a cheap source of protein for a population that needed to observe the fasting days of the Christian calendar.
For centuries, cod was food for the poor. The irony is that today, when properly prepared, it is a high-end gastronomic product.
The three cities we are focusing on — Bilbao, Madrid, and Barcelona — have different relationships with cod, but share a common denominator: they turned it into something more than a necessity. They turned it into identity.
Cod in Bilbao: The World Capital of the Dish
If there is one city that can undeniably be called the world capital of cooked cod, it is Bilbao. It's no exaggeration: the Basque Country, with Bilbao as its epicenter, developed the most sophisticated cod cooking techniques that exist, and made it the center of an entire gastronomic culture.
Why Bilbao and not somewhere else
For centuries, Bilbao was the main commercial port in northern Spain, the entry point for Norwegian and Icelandic cod into the Iberian interior. Basque cod fishermen — the bakailtariak — sailed to the North Atlantic fishing grounds and brought salted cod back. This proximity to the raw material generated an unparalleled cod culture in the Basque Country.
The great Basque cod dishes are techniques, not just recipes:
Al pil-pil: the gelatin from the cod, emulsified with olive oil and garlic at a low temperature through gentle movement, creates a creamy sauce without adding anything else. It is probably the most ingenious culinary technique developed with cod.
A la vizcaína: with a sauce made from rehydrated choricero peppers, onion, and garlic. Authentic Bizkaia sauce does not contain tomato — this detail is fundamental and a source of heated debates in Basque gastronomy.
Bacalao al Club Ranero: a variation of the Bizkaia style that adds green peppers and confit onion.
Cocochas al pil-pil: the same pil-pil technique applied to the cocochas (the most gelatinous part of the cod). Bilbao and San Sebastián dispute which of the two cities makes it best.
Cod stores in Bilbao
Bilbao has a strong tradition of specialized cod stores. The Mercado de la Ribera — Europe's largest covered market — houses stalls with quality cod. But beyond the market, there are establishments with their own names that have been in the sector for decades.
Note: We do not make specific recommendations for competitor establishments with comparative ratings. For updated lists of cod stores in Bilbao, consult Yelp, Google Maps, or updated local gastronomic guides.
Cod in Madrid: The City That Needed It
Madrid has no sea. Historically, this was a serious gastronomic problem for a capital city that needed to feed hundreds of thousands of people. Salted cod brilliantly solved this problem: it arrived dry, lasted for months, was distributed throughout Castile, and reached Madrid in perfect condition.
Cod as a subsistence protein in Madrid
During the 19th and much of the 20th century, cod in Madrid was a food for the popular and middle classes. "Cod in tomato" was a common dish in taverns and inns. The Lenten stew — chickpeas with cod and spinach — was the Good Friday meal in thousands of Madrid homes.
Over time, Madrid's gastronomy refined its relationship with cod. The Soldaditos de Pavía (fried battered cod pieces, a classic Madrid tapa) are an example of how the city transformed a necessity into a tradition.
Cod in current Madrid restaurants
Madrid today offers a gastronomic range with cod that goes from classic tavern dishes to haute cuisine. Specialized cod restaurants have proliferated in recent years, taking advantage of the product's newfound appreciation as a premium ingredient.
Cod stores in Madrid
The Mercado de San Miguel, the Mercado de Vallehermoso, and the Mercado de los Mostenses have stalls with quality cod. For artisanal desalted cod, there are specialized stores in the Maravillas neighborhood and in the gastronomic hub of the city center.
For updated lists of stores in Madrid, consult Google Maps with "artisanal cod Madrid" or specialized gastronomic guides.
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Cod in Barcelona: The Catalan Tradition
Barcelona and Catalonia have their own relationship with cod, different from the Basque and Madrid traditions. Cod in Catalonia is bacallà, and its presence in Catalan cuisine is so profound that there are dishes that do not exist in any other Spanish culinary tradition.
The bacallà in Catalan cuisine
The esqueixada is perhaps the most emblematic Catalan dish with cod: raw desalted cod (uncooked), hand-shredded, with tomato, onion, black olives, and olive oil. It is the Catalan sashimi — quality cod does all the work.
The brandada de bacallà (cod emulsified with olive oil, garlic, and sometimes milk) is another classic that in Catalonia is also used as a filling for cannelloni, toasts, and fritters (bunyols de bacallà).
The bacallà amb mongetes (cod with beans) is a humble winter dish that, in the hands of a good cook, has an extraordinary depth of flavor.
Mercat del Ninot and Bacalalo
The Mercat del Ninot, in Barcelona's Eixample district, has been one of the city's leading markets for decades. Bacalalo — our establishment — has been in this market since 1990, specializing in cod and seafood products.
In these more than thirty years, we have seen how cod in Barcelona went from being a common consumer product to becoming a sought-after, valued, and sometimes exclusive ingredient. Barcelonans know how to demand quality cod — and we have been meeting that standard for over three decades.
Bilbao vs Madrid vs Barcelona: Differences in the Use of Cod
| Aspect | Bilbao (Basque Country) | Madrid (Castile) | Barcelona (Catalonia) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Star Technique | Pil-pil, Vizcaína | Battered, stew | Esqueixada, brandada |
| Historical Relationship | Fishermen/cod fishermen | Inland necessity | Market cuisine |
| Serving Temperature | Hot | Hot | Cold and hot |
| Preferred Cut | Loin, kokotxas | Flakes, pieces | Shredded, loin |
| Identity | Technical and proud | Traditional and popular | Mediterranean and versatile |
Why Buying Cod Online Is a Completely Valid Option
Twenty years ago, buying quality cod meant knowing your trusted fishmonger or going to a specific market. Today, specialized online stores allow access to the same quality from anywhere in Spain.
The real advantages of online cod:
Traceability: a good online seller specifies the origin of the cod (Norway, Iceland, Faroe Islands), the size of the specimen, the type of desalting (if applicable), and the salt level. In a general supermarket, this information is rarely available.
Access to specific cuts: cocochas, boneless loin, desalted flakes, salted cod to desalt at home, bacallà esqueixat ready to eat. Not all these products are available in all markets.
Convenience: the product arrives home in optimal conditions (refrigerated, in adequate packaging) without needing to travel.
Consistency: in a specialized online store, the product you buy today is of the same standard as last week's. In a general market, rotation and quality can vary.
At Bacalalo, we ship throughout Spain with temperature and quality guarantees. We have been selecting cod in Barcelona for over thirty years — now that standard reaches any postcode in the country.
Buy cod online at Bacalalo — shipping throughout Spain
How to Choose Quality Cod: The Criteria We Apply at Bacalalo
Regardless of where you buy — Bilbao, Madrid, Barcelona, or online — the quality criteria for cod are the same:
1. Species: Gadus morhua is the North Atlantic cod, the reference species. There are other species (Pacific cod, pollock...) that are marketed as cod but have a different profile.
2. Origin: Norway, Iceland, and the Faroe Islands are the main producers of quality cod. Cod from cold, deep waters has more collagen and better texture.
3. Thickness and size of the specimen: the larger the cod, the higher the quality of the pieces. A cod loin from a 3-4 kg specimen is very different from a loin from an 800g cod.
4. Color and texture when salted: pearly white (no yellow spots or grayish tone), firm flesh to the touch, clean smell of salt and sea (never ammonia or rancid).
5. Salt level: to desalt at home, you need to know what salt level you are starting from. Cod with coarse salting needs more desalting time than one with fine salting.
Frequently Asked Questions about Cod in Spain
1. Is cod from Bilbao better than cod from Barcelona? The cod itself doesn't change by city. The difference is in who selects it, how it is desalted, and how it is cooked. Both cities have excellent culinary traditions with cod, simply distinct ones.
2. Is there "seasonal cod" like there is seasonal bonito del norte? Cod (Gadus morhua) is mainly caught in winter in the North Atlantic fishing grounds. But since it arrives salted, it does not have the seasonality of fresh fish: it is available year-round in its preserved form.
3. Is Norwegian cod better than Icelandic cod? They are species of the same genus (Gadus morhua) caught in similar waters. The differences are minor. What matters more is the size of the fish and the curing process applied by the importer/wholesaler.
4. Why is ready-to-cook desalted cod from the store so expensive compared to salted cod? Desalting is a process that takes 36-72 hours, requires refrigerated space, and constant water control. Additionally, cod loses volume when absorbing water during desalting and then regains it when cooked — but the specific moisture point at which it is sold already hydrated is important. All of this process justifies the higher price.
5. Can I order cod from Bacalalo (Barcelona) if I live in Bilbao or Madrid? Yes. We ship throughout Spain with guarantees of cold chain and quality. The cod travels perfectly refrigerated in isothermal packaging.
6. Which cut of cod is best for beginners? Desalted loin is the most versatile and easiest cut to handle. It comes boneless, already seasoned to perfection, and ready to cook. It's the best entry point for anyone who wants to start cooking with cod at home.
7. What are the reference cod markets in Spain? Mercado de la Ribera (Bilbao), Mercat del Ninot (Barcelona), Mercado de San Miguel and Mercado de los Mostenses (Madrid) are some of the markets with a tradition of quality cod.
8. Does salted cod have an expiration date? Well-salted and dry cod, properly stored in a cool, dry place, lasts for months or even years. Salt acts as a preservative. Always check the visual and olfactory state before use: it should smell of clean salt, with no trace of ammonia.
9. Can desalted cod be frozen? Yes, although it loses some texture. If you freeze desalted cod, do so in well-wrapped individual portions. Always thaw in the refrigerator, never at room temperature.
10. How much cod per person for a main course? In its desalted or rehydrated form, calculate 150-200g per person for a main course. For salted cod (before desalting), a little more because the weight decreases during the process.
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Conclusion
Bilbao, Madrid, and Barcelona each have their own genuine relationship with cod. All three have made it part of their gastronomic identity, from Bilbao's cod kokotxas al pil-pil to Madrid's stews and Catalonia's esqueixada.
What unites the three cities is that quality cod matters. The difference between a well-selected cod and a generic one is noticeable in the dish — no matter the recipe.
If you are in Bilbao, Madrid, Barcelona, or anywhere in Spain, at Bacalalo you have access to the same artisanal cod that we have been selecting for over thirty years at Mercat del Ninot.
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