Salt Cod Brandade: Technique and 5 Ways to Use It

Maria José Sáez Pastor
2026-04-03T18:20:50+02:00

Summary: Brandade is not a recipe. It's a technique. And understanding the difference completely changes how you approach it in the kitchen.

A recipe always produces the same result. A technique produces infinite results depending on how and where it is applied. Bacalao brandade — that emulsion of cod with olive oil, garlic, and sometimes milk or cream — is one of the most versatile techniques in Mediterranean cuisine. And it's surprisingly simple when you understand what's happening inside the pot.

At Bacalalo, we've been working with cod every day since 1990 at Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot. We've seen (and made) all types of brandade. This guide explains the technique, its variations, and — most usefully — five ways to apply it that go far beyond spreading it on toast.

Note: This post is different from our article on basic brandade. Here we focus on brandade as a culinary technique and its advanced applications in cooking.

Contents

What is Brandade: The Technique Before the Recipe

The Basic Technique: How to Make Perfect Brandade

5 Ways to Use Brandade in Cooking

The Cod We Use at Bacalalo for Brandade

What is Brandade: The Technique Before the Recipe

Brandade (brandade de morue in French, brandada de bacallà in Catalan) is an emulsion of desalinated cod with olive oil, sometimes supplemented with milk, garlic, and/or potato.

The word "emulsion" is key. It's not a cod puree — it's an emulsion, meaning the incorporation of fat (oil) into the cod through movement and controlled temperature. When done well, the texture is smooth, homogeneous, and silky. When done poorly, the oil separates, and you get greasy cod instead of brandade.

The three types of brandade

Catalan / Spanish Brandade: includes cooked potato. Denser, more robust, more resistant to hot cooking uses. It is the version that best holds up for filling cannelloni, frying croquettes, or baking vol-au-vents.

Provençal / French Brandade: no potato, just cod, oil, and garlic. Lighter, creamier, with a purer cod flavor. Ideal for toast and direct consumption.

Brandade with cream or milk: incorporates dairy to soften the flavor and add more body without needing potato. A middle ground.

The Basic Technique: How to Make Perfect Brandade

Ingredients (for about 600g of brandade, base for all applications)

400g desalinated cod (boneless loin, seasoned to taste)

150ml extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic

200g cooked potato (optional, for potato version)

50-100ml milk or cream (optional)

Salt and white pepper

Chopped parsley (to taste)

Step 1: The Cod

The cod must be properly desalinated and boneless. If you buy salted cod, desalt it in the refrigerator for 36-48 hours, changing the water every 8-10 hours. Taste for salt before use — it should have a pleasant level of salt, neither excessively salty nor bland.

Confit the cod: place it in a pot covered with olive oil at a very low temperature (maximum 65°C), for 15-20 minutes. The cod is ready when it can be easily flaked with a fork. If it boils, it hardens — maintain a low and constant temperature.

Remove the cod from the oil (reserve the oil). Flake with a fork or by hand, removing any remaining bones or skin.

Step 2: The Oil and Garlic

Confit the garlic (2 cloves) in the reserved cod oil over very low heat. The garlic should soften without browning — we want confit garlic flavor, not fried garlic. Remove the garlic and mash or crush it into a paste.

Step 3: The Emulsion

In a large mortar, food processor, or Kitchen Aid with a flat paddle: place the flaked cod and confit garlic. Begin to add the oil little by little, in a thin stream, while working the mixture vigorously (like mayonnaise).

In a mortar: constant circular motion, adding oil in a stream.

In a food processor: medium speed, incorporating oil in a stream through the funnel.

If you want brandade with potato: incorporate the cooked and still hot potato at this point, mashed, and continue working.

If you want brandade with milk/cream: alternate the stream of oil with a stream of hot milk.

The emulsification process takes between 5 and 10 minutes. The result should be a homogeneous, smooth, light ivory mass that cleanly separates from the bowl.

Step 4: Adjustment and Finishing

Taste for salt. Add salt only if necessary (the cod already provides salt). Adjust with a little more oil if the texture is too dense, or with more potato if it is too liquid.

Add chopped parsley if used for direct consumption. Omit parsley if it will be used as an ingredient in more elaborate preparations.

5 Ways to Use Brandade in Cooking

1. Bacalao Brandade Cannelloni (Catalan Classic)

Bacalao cannelloni are a Catalan festive dish as important as meat cannelloni — and preferred by many families. Potato brandade is the ideal filling: dense enough not to come out of the tube, with a balanced cod flavor.
Process:

1. Prepare potato brandade according to the basic technique.

2. Cook cannelloni sheets al dente (or use quick-cook ones).

3. Fill each sheet with brandade and roll up. Place in a baking dish.

4. Cover with a light béchamel (not too thick) and grate Parmesan or aged Manchego cheese.

5. Bake in the oven at 200°C until golden.

The key: the béchamel should not be the star — it is a vehicle for gratinating. The brandade is the star.

Bacalalo Tip: add a tablespoon of brandade to the béchamel before pouring it. This way, the entire dish tastes of cod.

2. Brandade Croquettes

Cod croquettes are one of the most popular tapas in Spanish cuisine. Brandade as a filling produces croquettes with a milder flavor and creamier texture than those made with simple flaked cod.
Process:

1. Prepare a denser brandade (reduce oil, use more potato).

2. Prepare a very thick béchamel (croquette base): 100g butter + 100g flour + 600ml milk. Cook, stirring, until it separates from the sides of the pan. Mix brandade with béchamel in a 1:1 ratio.

3. Spread on a tray, cover with film, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours (preferably 12h).

4. Form croquettes with a spoon or by hand, coat in flour + beaten egg + panko or breadcrumbs.

5. Fry in abundant oil at 180°C until intensely golden. Drain on paper towels.

The secret: panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) produces a crispier and lighter crust than conventional breadcrumbs. It's worth seeking out.

3. Brandade Toast (Gratinated and Non-Gratinated)

Brandade toast is the simplest and most direct use. It can be served cold or gratinated.
Cold Version:

Rye or sourdough toast

Provençal brandade (without potato) at room temperature

Thin slices of sun-dried tomato on top

A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil

Chopped chives or parsley

Gratinated Version:

Lightly toasted country bread base

Generous potato brandade

Grated semi-cured sheep cheese on top

Gratinate in the oven or under a salamander until the cheese bubbles

Serve hot with a pinch of smoked paprika

The gratinated version turns toast into a spectacular dish with minimal effort.

4. Brandade Sphere (Modern Cooking Technique)

This is the most technical application — and the most surprising when served. A brandade sphere, with a smooth and shiny exterior and liquid brandade inside, is a mouthful that explodes on the palate.

Basic Technique (Direct Spherification):
Additional Ingredients:

2g sodium alginate per 500ml of liquefied brandade

5g calcium chloride per liter of bath water

Process:

1. Liquefy the brandade with an immersion blender until completely smooth (no lumps).

2. Dissolve the alginate in the liquefied brandade with an immersion blender. Let rest for 30 minutes to eliminate bubbles.

3. Prepare the calcification bath: dissolve calcium chloride in cold water.

4. With a coffee spoon or a syringe, drop portions of brandade-alginate into the calcification bath. Spheres will form in 2-3 minutes.

5. Remove with a slotted spoon, rinse in clean cold water.

6. Serve immediately on an olive puree, a pea cream, or directly on a spoon.

Usage Note: spheres last 1-2 hours before the membrane hardens. Prepare just before serving or a maximum of 2 hours in advance.

This technique is perfect for signature dinners or to impress with a special presentation. The visual result and the mouthfeel justify the technique.

5. Brandade Vol-au-vents

Brandade vol-au-vents are an elegant appetizer option, quick to prepare, and perfect for celebrations and events.

Process:

1. Buy pre-baked puff pastry vol-au-vents (found in kitchen stores and some supermarkets).

2. Heat the vol-au-vents in the oven at 160°C for 5 minutes.

3. Generously fill with hot brandade (or at room temperature if serving cold).

4. Finishing options:

- Anchovy on top + chives - Truffle slice if available - Caramelized onion as a base + brandade on top - Trout roe or tobiko for a touch of color and marine contrast
Mini variant: mini-vol-au-vents (3-4cm diameter) are perfect for cocktails or appetizers. Each one is a complete bite.

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The Cod We Use at Bacalalo for Brandade

Brandade demands a lot from cod. Not because it requires the most expensive cut, but because the final flavor directly depends on the quality of the cod:

Species: Gadus morhua (North Atlantic cod), no discussion.

Cut: boneless desalinated loin, or quality cod flakes. Flakes are perfect for brandade — you don't need whole pieces.

Salt level: slightly low. It's easy to add salt at the end, impossible to remove it.

At Bacalalo, we sell desalinated cod ready to use, selected with the criteria we've applied since 1990: traceable origin, correct desalination, no excess added water.

See desalinated cod for brandade at Bacalalo

Frequently Asked Questions about Cod Brandade

1. How long does brandade last in the refrigerator? Brandade lasts 3-4 days in the refrigerator, well covered. Over time, it may lose some texture (the oil may separate slightly) but can be reintegrated by stirring well or gently heating and stirring.

2. Can brandade be frozen? Yes, with reservations. The emulsion can separate upon thawing. If freezing, do so in small portions and thaw slowly in the refrigerator. It may be necessary to re-emulsify with a tablespoon of oil when heating.

3. Can I make brandade without potato? Yes. Provençal brandade (without potato) is lighter, with a purer cod flavor. It is ideal for toast and direct consumption, but less stable for hot cooking uses like croquettes or cannelloni.

4. Is brandade the same as Venetian baccalà mantecato? They are cousins. Venetian baccalà mantecato uses unsalted dried cod (stoccafisso, not salato), confits it in oil and milk, and mounts it in a very similar way. The result is smoother, less salty. Brandade uses desalinated salted cod.

5. Does Catalan brandade always include garlic? Garlic is common but not mandatory. In milder versions, the amount is greatly reduced or omitted. In versions where the cod flavor should be the pure protagonist, garlic can be removed or kept to a minimum.

6. What do I do if the brandade is too liquid? Add more cooked potato (hot) and work it well. Or place over very low heat, stirring constantly until excess moisture evaporates. Liquid brandade also has uses — as a base for creamy cod soups or for filling spheres.

7. What do I do if the brandade is too dry or stiff? Add more oil in a stream while working it, or a little hot milk. The texture of brandade is very adjustable.

8. Can I use seed oil instead of olive oil? Technically yes, but the result is much inferior in flavor. Extra virgin olive oil is part of brandade's flavor profile. With sunflower oil, you get something technically similar but gastronomically very different.

9. What other creams or purees combine well with brandade? As a base or as a layer in a composition: with pea cream (the green contrasts with the white), with cauliflower puree, with roasted spring onion foam. Brandade works as a salty and umami element in combinations with smoother and sweeter purees.

10. Does brandade contain lemon? Some versions add a few drops of lemon juice or zest for freshness. It is not mandatory. If the cod is well desalinated and perfectly seasoned, the brandade does not need acidity correction.

Conclusion

Cod brandade is one of the most useful and versatile techniques in Mediterranean cuisine. It is not a dish — it is a tool: a processed ingredient that can be transformed into five completely different preparations, from the simplest appetizer (toast) to the most technical presentation (a spherification sphere).

Understanding brandade as a technique, not as a single recipe, opens up possibilities that go far beyond the traditional "spreading on bread." Cannelloni, croquettes, gratinated toasts, spheres, and vol-au-vents are just the starting points.

And it all starts with good cod. At Bacalalo, that's precisely what we've been doing since 1990.

Buy desalinated cod at Bacalalo

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